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First of all I must warn you of the dangers bench grinders can represent. Here in Britain no one connected with a business is allowed to carry out any maintenance on any none-portable grinding machine unless they have attended and passed a course on the subject and every employer must keep a register recording what maintenance has been carried out and by whom. Grinding machines have been responsible for many industrial "accidents".
Householders and private individuals are exempt from the Law but cannot afford to be less well informed even though the five and six inch bench grinders sold to the domestic user represent a somewhat reduced risk, great care and precautions are still required, not the least of which is the use of good eye protection even if the grinder is fitted with shields.
The first problem about dressing the grinding wheel of a grinder intended for the domestic market is the tool rests are usually too small and insubstantial for the vibrating star-wheel type wheel dressing tool to be used correctly.
A demonstration would be the best way to learn how to dress a grinding wheel and there are many available on Youtube and here is a link to a particularly good video.
Finally, it is best to be aware of one little thought about problem. There is an optimum speed range when a grinding wheel works efficiently and small domestic grinders barely turn fast enough for them to be properly efficient, probably because it is reckoned price and user safety takes priority over efficiency.
The speed that is of concern is the surface or peripheral speed of the grinding surface rather than the rpm of the spindle and should that speed fall too low the wheel will not be able to operate efficiently, will become dull more quickly with a greater tendency to clog and the wheel will become hot in use and hot grinding wheels soon become dangerous.
I hope you will be able to see that by reducing the diameter of a grinding wheel by dressing it also reduces the surface speed of the grinding surface even though the spindle speed remains the same. The relationship between surface speed and spindle speed is why small grinding points need to spin at 20,000 rpm and an eight foot wheel at just a few hundred rpm - in both cases the surface speed is similar.
A domestic grinder should not be used for heavy work but as the size of the wheel is reduced it should be used only for increasingly light work and if it is desired to carry out "normal" grinding operations it would be better to replace the wheel sooner rather than later.
A bench grinder has left handed threads on one shaft and right handed on the other,so that the grinding stones don't unscrew the nut as you grind something.I haven't ever gotten around to getting a bench grinder,but on my father's, I used to just hand tighten the nut,then grab the grinding wheel with my hand while tightening the nut with a wrench.(You don't have to make it real tight,as the wheel pushing against the nut will keep it tight)
Because the locknut on grinders are threaded to be self tightening, they can get lodged on quite tight. If it's stuck that bad, put the body of the grinder snuggly in a vice but don't crack the casing. Make sure the arbor lock is seated well and put all the pressure you can on the locknut wrench you can muster. If it still won't come loose, squirt some liquid wrench on the arbor-locknut gap and let it soak in.
There is a button at the front of the grinder usually black or red, depress it lightly and rotate the wheel (unplug grinder please) wait until you feel it fall into spot, depress tightly and hold then turn wheel and unscrew to replace pad. Reverse to reassemble.Good Luck....
My first thought about the chain continuuin to become loose, is that you need to loosen the nuts on the back wheel, and pull the wheel (while the chain is still attached to bot hsprockets) in order to remove any slack. If it's a continuous issue, chances are that back tire keeps migrating forward because those nuts aren't tight enough.
To the pedal issue-If the pedals are wobbling or vibrating because the aren't snug while on the pedal bar (the bar that the pedals revolve around) it is probably because the peddals are too large. Try buying a new set of pedals. If they are loose and trying to slip off of the pedal bar and if you have tightened the nuts that keep the pedal on the pedal bar and they are continuing to become loose, it could be that you need to use locking nuts.
A quick fix to solving loose pedals is to add washers to the end of the bar until the washers are flush up against the pedal and the nut.
Probably not, Remember the nut is a reverse thread. Your best bet it to try some penetrating fluid or try tapping the nut with a screwdriver, hopefully the vibration will help loosen it. Another trick that sometimes works if the machine has a diamond blade or an abrasive wheel with some life left on it is to put on a pair of heavy duty work gloves. Lock the arbor and try to grab the wheel tight and try to spin the wheel loose with your hand. Don't forget to unplug the machine before attempting to remove the wheel.
i have trouble breaking makita parts loose. you will probably have to hit it. tap the bottom with a hammer to break rust or whatever loose. don't damage the shaft or nut. you may have to have someone help hold it while you put some muscle on it. good luck
Just put a wrench on the nut on the opposite side to hold the spindle. They will both tighten at the same time. Tighten them "snug". The threads are made so the nuts will self tighten or should I say will not come loose due to the way the wheels turn and pressure from use is applied.
There is a nut that you release from the middle of the grinder wheel, (grinder blade) This nut is flat and has four holes in it.
You will see you are providing a spanner wrench to remove this nut. The wrenches' actual name is Lock Nut Wrench. It has a U shaped end with two pins sticking out. On on each side of the U shape.
The pins are inserted into the holes in the flat lock nut, located in the middle of the grinding wheel. The wrench is laid flat against the grinding wheel, with the two pins of the wrench going into any two holes of the nut.
At the top of the Makita grinder you will see a Black button. The button is pushed down to keep the grinding wheel from spinning. Holds the grinding wheel in place, as you turn the lock nut loose. When you release the button, a spring inside pushes the button back up out of the way.
As you view the Makita grinder, Release Button towards the Back, grinding wheel towards you, the nut is turned to the LEFT, to loosen. It is a Left threaded nut.
The grinding wheel spins to the Right. Using a left threaded nut insures that the nut will stay tight, due to the direction the grinding wheel spins.