Question about GE GSL25JFXLB (250 cu ft) Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There could a problem with the condenser fan as well. The cost will depend on what they find. Try calling a shop for an estimate. Mke sure they are authorized and qualified to work on your brand. Any warranty left?
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
SOURCE: Defrost not cycling
Pull the temp dial off inside the fresh foods section and then take the plastic light shield off. You should see a hole in the metal control housing now, on the right side, about the size of a nickel. There is a plastic part in there that you can turn with a flat blade screwdriver. Turn it very slowly clockwise until you hear a click. (Refrig should now be in defrost) If refrig turns itself back on before an hour is up, timer should be OK and I'd check the defrost heater WR49X391 for continuity. If refrig takes a hour or more and has not turned back on, manually turn the part again slowly until it clicks again and the refrig begins to run again. Order a new defrost timer WR9X502. Doors left open or bad door gaskets can also frost up a refrig and would require appropriate action to correct those situations.
Posted on May 11, 2009
I took a ohm reading on the cirsuit board between the defrost (J4) and line (J9) terminals and found that the defrost element was open or burned apart
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
This is how the defrost works . I have NEVER found a defrost problem associated with a bad main control board since these computerized GE's came out in 2000 . Lots of thermistor problems , lying to the board , causing different problems .
Your GSS model refrig does not have a defrost timer . It works off of the main control board . Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
SOURCE: I have a GE refrigerator
you can jumper the board where the line cord enters the board,it will say comp/defrost/neutral in the center,jumper between the center terminal and the outer one that says defrost,if it still doesnt defrost you need to disconnect the defrost heater and check for continuity,then do the same with the defrost thermostat,but the thermostat needs to be below freezing to test it or it will show open(bad) the heater will show some resistance to be good
Posted on Apr 06, 2011
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