Question about Dryers
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore gas dryer
kuki, on a gas dryer, if the thermal fuse is blown, it will rotate but will not heat. If your dryer front has a lower panel, the fuse will be in front behind the blower housing. If not, it will be in back just like this pic. Ohm it out or jump it out temp to see if that is the problem. Post back, Catriver
Posted on Aug 31, 2007
SOURCE: kenmore gas dryer not heating
GAS DRYER, NO HEAT. CHECK THE HEAT SETTING FIRST.
IS IT ON AIR FLUFF? I'M NOT BEING SMART, BUT YOU WOULD BE SURPRISED HOW MANY CALLS I TAKE THAT ARE ON AIR FLUFF. SECOND, LISTEN FOR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER. IF YOU HEAR IT, LOOK IN THE INSPECTION HOLE ON THE FRONT OF THE DRYER, OR REMOVE THE TOE PLATE TO VIEW THE IGNITOR. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS AND THEN CLICKS OFF BUT NO FLAME, YOU HAVE A BAD SOLENOID ON THE GAS VALVE. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF, THE RADIANT SENSOR ATTACHED TO THE SIDE OF THE BURNER ASSEMBLY IS BAD.
IF YOU DON'T HEAR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER, THE MOST LIKELY CAUSE IS THE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE DRYER DOWN NEAR THE EXHAUST DUCT. IT IS A SMALL WHITE ITEM ATTACHED TO THE EXHAUST DUCT WITH TWO WIRES ATTACHED.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
SOURCE: GE DRYER HEATING ELEMENT
Yes, the whole drum needs to be removed:
Before you go trough this make sure you know for sure your elements need replacement by checking for continuity at both element terminals.
Make sure you do the same with your high limit thermostat on housing.
How to remove the drum?:
Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you begin to remove the drum. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself. Reach inside and release the belt tension by removing the belt from the motor pinion.
Older GE dryer models have a small drum bearing inspection plate in the center of the back of the dryer. This drum bearing inspection plate provides access to the dryer's circlip (also known as an e-ring). This clip holds the rear drum shaft in place. Newer models do not have this circlip or the drum bearing inspection plate.
If yours is an older GE model with an inspection plate, remove the plate now. It will be held in place with a single screw. With the plate removed, you will be able to see the drum support shaft and the e-ring (circlip) holding the shaft in place. Use a small screwdriver to remove the e-ring. You may also want to use a magnet to keep the circlip from falling into the dryer. You will also find several metal and nylon shims between the bearing and the e-ring, inside the bearing, and between the bearing and the drum. Take careful note of how they come off so that you will be able to put them back on again in the right order.
Now remove the front panel of the dryer. There are a couple of different ways this is accomplished. Whichever method you use is dependent upon your model. Some older models have two spring catch clips under the cabinet top, one on the left side, and one on the right side of the front. Use a putty knife, or some other flat and thin object to wedge in under the cabinet top. Release both spring catches and lift the cabinet top off the dryer. In some newer models, there will be screws joining the cabinet front panel to the cabinet top. You will have to open the door in order to find these screws. Once they are found, remove them and then slide the cabinet top forward and lift it off the unit.
Next, there are two screws located in the bottom of the front panel, one in each corner. Loosen these, but do not remove them just yet. Locate and remove the two screws at the top inside of the dryer's front panel. Again, there is one screw in each corner. Proceed to remove the other two screws you have just loosened. Disconnect the door switch wires and then lift the front panel off your dryer. With the front panel removed, lift the drum and slide it out of the dryer.
NOTE: In some models, you will have to remove the dryer drum glides before you can remove the drum. Also, now that the interior of your dryer is completely exposed, it might be a good time to vacuum out all of the dust and lint that has built up in there.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 09, 2011 | Maytag Neptune MDG9700A Gas Dryer
Jul 24, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer
Apr 03, 2011 | GE Dryers
Feb 26, 2011 | GE Dryers
Sep 06, 2010 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750GC Gas Dryer
Sep 06, 2010 | GE DBXR463EDWW Electric Dryer
May 19, 2010 | Dryers
Jan 03, 2010 | GE Profile Prodigy DPSR513GA Dryer
Sep 10, 2009 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750GC Gas Dryer
Feb 06, 2008 | Dryers
23 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!