Question about GE Profile PFS22MBW French Door Refrigerator

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Pfs22mbw HI I came home and my refrig light is on

Pfs22mbw HI I came home and my refrig light is on but the temp control box lights out and no cold air in refrigerator or freezer. I unplugged it and I looked in the back. I packet of oatmeal was covering one of the vents just alittle bit. I had somethings on the top of fridge as well. I took everything off top and checked vents but they are free from dust. I waited about two hours and plugged it back in. The temp control box still doesn't light up and on the fridge lights are on.

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I believe that the main control board or the temp display board have gone bad. The fridge will not run without both boards working. I purchase my parts through www.appliancepartspros.com . I am unable to provide any other information as far as narrowing it down further other than replace the temp board first. Maybe another expert will have that information and can add it to my own.

Posted on Jun 12, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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textonor
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SOURCE: Freezer not freezing enough and fridge not cold enough

Hello Scott, remove the food from the freezer side and remove the rear freezer panel. You will see a coil and it should be completely frosted over. If not then you have a sealed system issue. If it is froze solid in frost where you cannot even see the coil, then you have a defrost issue. You should have a little frost on all the coil, the defrost is what clears the frost so the evap fan motor can circulate the air thru out the unit. If frost is good, push the light door switch to start the fan. If it isn't running check for 120 volts. If it has voltage, but not running, replace the motor. Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile GSH25SGPCSS Refrig. side thinks it's the freezer!

check damper control

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE TFX26KRDA WW 2001 side by side refrig/freezer w warm fridge

Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE GSS201EMD CC

Your problem is the Defrost Heater Assy. I know because i own the same model refrigerator. The first time I had this problem I looked at the same things you did. I then called a repairman who charged me about $140.00. I watched what he did and asked questions, that's how I knew what the part was called. The repair lasted about a year and YES it happeneed again. I ordered the part myself this time and did the repair myself. And now after six months it has happened again. I will never buy another GE refrigerator. In fact I have heard that there was a recall on this model (lawsuit), but the window has passed and we are stuck with this crappy refrigerator. The repair is simple and you can get the instructions online. The part costs about $30.00 which you can also order online--Isn't the internet great. Hope this info helps.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigator not cooling properly, freezer works fine

I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.

If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,

After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.

The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.

Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.

When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.

Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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I will post the parts need below so that you may order the affected parts on line if you choose.

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Please rate and god bless:)

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