Question about Proform EKG Tread Drive Motor Model Number PCTL53590

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Proform EKG PCTL53590 does not start the motor. I press all the play button and the treadmill will not start.

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  • Proform Master
  • 12,223 Answers

See the video attached and proceed and fix it. God bless you

Posted on Oct 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Proform 515s treadmill motor won't start

If the colse buttons make a chirping noise when you push them the console should be Ok. If there is no chirping noise with the push it is a bad console. If everything but the speed works it will probably be your motor controller that is bad.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

bubathebear
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Treadmill Speeds Up Automatically

you might have it on a preset workout....i would read the instructions and find out how to put it on manual

Posted on May 20, 2009

erpaalai
  • 999 Answers

SOURCE: My Proform treadmill will not incline. It is stuck

Under the hood there should be a tech sheet with calibration instructions. I have not worked on these for several years or I would rattle off the procedure. If the sheet is still there make sure you put it back in the plastic sleeve for next time..... Eric

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

taran_2005
  • 10515 Answers

SOURCE: Proform 765 treadmill slows down when step on. Do

Hi,

More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.

BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
Controller:
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.

The site :-

http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Treadmill-Belt-Bogs-Down

Any further assistance, let me know.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

roadtech7
  • 293 Answers

SOURCE: Describe your proform 765 ekg

The problem you have is one of two things. 1 you have a loose walk belt, or 2 you have a spun front drive pully.

You need to remove the front cover to be able to observe the drive belt as it is turning on the drive pully( on the LH side of the front roller) try to stop the walk belt while traveling at speed setting 3. Hang on to the side handles, if the drive belt runs as normal, watch the front roller it will be slipping. If this happens you will need to replace the front roller.

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

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