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Whirlpool cabrio turned off during rinse cycle and won't turn back on

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Posted on Oct 14, 2013

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Check the drain line for blockage. Also, make sure an article of clothing didn't get between the basket and tub and may be blocking the drain hole.

Posted on Oct 11, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

ginko
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Washer will not progress to the rince cycle.

that is either a problem with the timer , or with the cold water hose at the back of the machine, see the following:



I quote from : The cycle doesn't advance

The cycle doesn't advanceWhen the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It'sthe timer, if your washing machine fills with water and beginsagitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spincycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • Itmay be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills withwater, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinsewater. See There's no cold water.

  • Posted on Nov 20, 2008

    • 6 Answers

    SOURCE: Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.

    It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

    Water-inlet valve
    Water-level switch
    Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

    Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

    It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

    The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

    If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

    Posted on May 08, 2009

    Maytag317
    • 1136 Answers

    SOURCE: Will not spin on any rinse cycle

    Hi, This washer does not have a belt. While the washer is agitating, if you lift the lid will it stop? Some models will agitate but not spin if the lid is up. It sounds to me like the lid switch might be going bad.
    If you will get me a model #, I can look this up for you and give you a better idea.

    Vic

    Posted on Jul 05, 2009

    • 1 Answer

    SOURCE: I bought a scratch and dent Whirlpool Cabrio

    I just bought the exact same model this weekend that I found used in the classifieds. The person who sold it to me said it worked, but when I got it home and hooked it up, it did exactly what yours did, even with no laundry in it. It would get to the spin cycle and start banging around violently like it had a brick in it. I even used an electronic level to make sure it wasn't uneven on the floor. From doing a little research on the web, i read that the suspension could have gone faulty. I took it out and set it up in my garage and hooked a hose up to the cold to see it run a small cold water load with the back panel off so I could observe what was going on inside. From what I observed, the suspension springs were sprung and some worse than the others. I am going to order a replacement set from Sears tomorrow and replace them to see if the unbalanced problem goes away. Removing them is a cinch and should take about a half hour to do all four and put everything back together. I will let you know if my unbalance problem goes away.

    Posted on Aug 17, 2009

    • 57 Answers

    SOURCE: whirlpool cabrio loud noise during spin cycle

    Hi,
    The inner bearing will be faulty kindly replace the inner bearings as well as water seal before that kindly check whether the drum is freely moving with out any shaking If you find any shaking means you are suppose to change the drum only

    Posted on May 18, 2010

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    Washing machine displays an LF error code. Started last week during whitest whites cycle in rinse. I cancelled and just did rinse to finish my load. All other cycles worked and yesterday all started...


    LF = Long Fill

    LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
    Is water supply connected and turned on?
    Are hose screens plugged?
    Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.


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    Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display and completely cancel the cycle

    flashes if the washer loses power during a running cycle. The washer does not flash "PF" when it is first plugged in.
    Press START to continue the cycle from the moment that power was lost

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    sound like a stuck motor you should check it out and see if the motor turns these motors have cheap bushbearings that wearout once they waer out to a certain point the motor stator phisicaly touches the side of the motor and once magnetizm turns on it sticks to the side and buzzes but does not turn cuz its stuck!

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    you may need a new timer. yes have it looked at.

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