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Mdg7600 gas dryer replaced coil- hot surface igniter lights then shuts off -bypassed cycling thermostat still no luck

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  • Maytag Master
  • 2,122 Answers

If it lights then most likely you have a block somewhere with lint,pull out the lint filter and then remove the duct that the filter slides into and clean it out,with a shop vac set it up to blow and blow off the burner tube,the motor and the whole cabinet,put it back together,now go to the back,remove the vent line and start it,if it runs fine until you reinstall the vent line then you have a block in the line,i use a leaf blower,i remove the vent line,go outside,make sure the outside duct is clear,nothing blocking it like a cage or screen,go back inside,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,this usually clears it.lint buildup is the most common problem with dryers.let me know what you find.if you already changed the gas coils and ignitor and the flame does light most likely bad air movement.

Posted on Oct 10, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: no heat

You may have a weak igniter. Just because the igniter glows, does not mean it is working properly. The glow bar type igniters are supposed to draw a certain amount of current in order for the gas valve to open. If the current potential is never met, the gas valve will not open. This is a safety feature used to prevent gas flow without ignition. The current readings for the igniters are as follows: Round style glow bar: 2.7 to 3.2 amps Square style glow bar: 3.2 to 3.7 amps If it is reading less than the required amperage, replace it. This may just solve your problem. Let me know if this helps you.

Posted on Sep 08, 2007

VOTIT
  • 2071 Answers

SOURCE: Gas Dryer quit heating today

Just click below;

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse

Hope it may help you;

Regards;
VOTIT

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore gas dryer not getting hot enough

Have you checked the lint trap and also the vent hose? If you have yet to do that try it. Also make sure that the vent line is not crushed. It needs to be wide open

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

flacooo1
  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: Gas dryer continues to run on the Auto cycle.

try to get the manual for the dryer you got and locate the moisture sensor if this sensor is bad what happen is that the automatic timer thinks that the clothes still wet and continues to dry once the sensor detects no moisture then it shut off the dryer normally is located behind the dryer on the exit line of the air duct and tested for conductivity and see if is good or not

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: My whirlpool gas dryer will not cycle through on

UNPLUG the dryer. This model you need to remove the two screws under the lint screen. Now use a flat blade screw drive and insert it in the gap between the top and the front panel and pry the top up. Now locate and remove the screws on the inside of the front panel in upper corners. The front should lift off. You will see the two black coils on the gas valve. When you remove the three wire coil, make sure the sleeve inside it gets put back on the post the coils slides onto.
If I can assist you further, please let me know.

Thanks
Vic

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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Model gtdp180ed2ww. What causes it to stop mid-cycle?


Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour:
Bad motor windings


IS IT GAS OR ELECTRIC?

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q
GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE




Dryer Overheats and or Dryer Gets too Hot

Apr 22, 2016 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore Dryer 110.76932690. Motor runs fine. Glow bar ignitor does not light. Flame doesn't come on. Changed Internal Bias Operating Thermostat still doesn't ignite. What could be other


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Aug 30, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer cuts off soon


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q




Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Apr 30, 2014 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Gas Dryer Ignition Issues


did you try bypassing the cycling t-stat also?

Aug 25, 2012 | Samsung Dryers

2 Answers

My Kenmore gas dryer 417.90042990 will not heat. Otherwise it works fine. How can I fix it?


Here is the troubleshooting order. The first thing to check is the igniter if glowing red hot when the dryer is started and runs. If it turns red hot, the problem is with the radiant sensor or the gas valve solenoid coils. The radiant sensor must align perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves, one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the igniter turns red hot and the radiant sensor is aligned with it and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. In this case, both solenoids must be replaced. The resistance of the 2-prong coils is around 1200 ohms while the 3-pronged one is around 1320 ohms between the outer prongs.

The igniter is good if it reads 100 ohms. The safety thermostat on the burner cone is blown open if the igniter does not glow red hot. Check the continuity of the safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat on the bower housing. Replace both the
safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat if the safety thermostat is found open.

Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Jul 09, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

I have an older Kenmore gas dryer model # 97260100 it heats up for 15 minutes then goes cold, drum continues to run can u give me any insight as to what needs to be replaced


The problem is either of the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify any of these condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_16.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72872 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Have a kenmore model # 110.72822101, where's the thermostat located, my dryer gets hot then cold


The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_15.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

1 Answer

How do you relight the pilot on a kenmore 80 series gas dryer?


Their is no pilot light. The system uses a glowbarce9a48b.jpgOPERATION
The newer dryers use a silicone carbide ignitor for ignition. If the Fuse is ok482c508.jpg the gas assembly gets power from the control thermostatfa8083a.jpg. The flame sensor allows the ignitor to go cat go. The coils themselves10e9e78.jpg cannot open the gas because the ignitor is using a lot of power. When flame detectc5ddc7a.jpg gets warm enough then it shuts down the ignitor and power is redirected on the other side of the 3 prong coil. The ignitor is not finished. It now is hot enough to act as a path to the secondary coil which energizes and sends that raw gas to the 1800f screaming hot ignitor. Igniton occurs and keeps the ignitor hot. If ignition at this point were to fail the ignitor would cool down and shut off the power to the secondary coil. Clever ain't it? So what can go wrong? Worn out flame sensor takes longer to reset, ignitor open. Clogged vent012c9c0.jpg overheat fuse blown, bad thermostat, and faulty solenoids.If all is good it should continually shut on and off all during the cycle to regulate the heat

May 09, 2010 | Kenmore 72062 Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Won't stay lit


You ignitor is working and sensor is working because it will fire up. so those pesky coils are intermittant because they get hot and quit cool off and work some more . replace them
cc8e664.jpgHere is a little ditty I wrote some time ago about this subject
INTERMITTANT COILS

Mar 07, 2009 | Maytag MDG6000 Dryer

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