Question about Zodiac Jandy Hi-E2 350K BTU Residential Pool Heater - Natural Gas

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Jandy HI-E2 350K pool heater vent limit switch is resetting, flow is fast and good, but water temp is getting over 140 and kicking vent limit switch out

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The vent switch is for the exhaust. the 135 high limit should be opening if the water temp is getting to 140 degrees.. 1 safety will kill the entire circuit since they are all wired in series

Posted on Feb 13, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My Jandy Laars Natural Gas pool heater (LJ250N)

Check your heater by-pass valve and be sure it is almost closed. If not that then it will be your internal by-pass. These will force water through heater and keep it from overheating the water inside it and shuting it down. Also check to be sure the baskets are clean and the filter is clean.

Posted on Jun 27, 2010

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1 Answer

My ray pack RP2100 is flashing HL2 what does it mean


HL2 = High limit switch 2 is open. The switch opens if water temp inside the inlet/outlet header exceeds 135 - 140 F.
If you reset the heater and the HL2 does not reset, then the HL2 is likely faulty. When you order a high limit, there are 2 types on these models. Red (135 F) or black (140 f).

If you reset the heater, the HL2 resets and the heater fires for a short time, then the problem is likely with restricted water flow inside the inlet/outlet header.
Check the Unitherm Governor (thermostat) and the Internal Automatic Bypass Valve.

If you are uncomfortable with this type of repair work, a good service technician can be a wise investment in not only your time but the safety of you and your family.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/27601-RAYPAK-DIGITAL-POOL-HEATER-INOPERATIVE

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reset vent limit switch then check gas pressure if tooo low it will overheat and pop that if continued to reset and use without finding cause you will ruin heater you might need a vent stack if gas pressure is correct

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1 Answer

Lo error showing and it kicks off about every 6 minutes


Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


A 'LO' error code for a Hayward heater is a limit string open error. If the limit string opens the heater shuts down and goes into lockout. Automatic restart is 2 minutes after the error condition is corrected and the limit string closes.


The limit string is a series of switches designed to turn off the heater if air or water temperatures exceed a safe operating limit.


The problem may be faulty a switch(es) but is far more likely to be a system condition the switches are reacting too that needs to be corrected. Low flow of combustion air due to obstructions around the heater or the vent; low flow of water through the heater allowing too high a water temp; Poor venting or sooted-over heat exchanger causing flame rollout. These are all conditions that should be eliminated if they exist.


If you are not familiar with these switches or the conditions described you may want to consider calling in a professional. Hayward can refer you to someone in your area who is. Call Hayward at 908-351-5400 or try the website locator found here.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


John

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My hayward heater gives a LO error when trying to heat. you cant put the heater either in pool or spa mode, then set the temp. The temp flashes then you get a LO error. I've checked the valve settings to...


One of your limits is not working or not wired up. An easy way to check the limits - Water pressure switch, Hi limits, air pressure switch all of which have 2 wires going to them. Unplug one item and connect the 2 wires together ( paper clip works fine ) Then retest, if problem does not go away remove paper clip and reconnect wires and move to the next limit. The limits are located in the black plastic header. Always make sure water is flowing through the heater at all times while checking the limits.

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This is most likley a water flow problem. If you have an external by-pass this should be almost closed. If not not you may have a problem with your internal by-pass. This is inside your water header on the heater. Your book can help you with this.

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Without knowing what equipment you have, I would guess that ypu have a defective pressure or flow switch. This would allow the heating circuit to activate without adequate water flow. The temp builds up in heater assembly which triggers the high limit switch to kill circuit until it cools down.

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mine were corroded, but passed a continuity test. removing the corrosion opened a hole in one of the cases. $30/ea to replace (parts only). then i read how the brass 'screw' they contact with are prone to corrosion (salt pool), not listed in the parts manual, but are available as part# R0383200 (another $6/ea). not a happy jandy/laars/teledyne owner.

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Look at the sensor that tells unit that everything is lit. There should be some sort of sensor that tells the ECU that the ingnition area is a burn temp. It sounds like the unit can't tell that flame is lit. Hope this helps.

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