Question about Refrigerators

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The evaporator ices up enough to get ice to the circulating fan. as the ice begins to touch the fan it begins to make a lot of noise. then when the ice stops the fan no more cooling. the drain is also freezing. i have replaced the circulating fan once and have to watch it very close so that it doesn't burn out again. how do i test the continuity on the defroster element and if that isn't the problem what is the next step? This is a bottom freezer unit.

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  • ergbtn1 Apr 23, 2009

    I have removed the bottom tray of the refrigerator section which exposes the coils, fan, drain line leading from the evaporator area and using a hair drier I have defrosted the unit. All works well for a few days or maybe even a week and then the problem starts over.



    note of interest; this unit is installed in my garage. The installation is near Houston Texas. Very humid during the summer. Season of the year seems to have no bearing on occurences. How do I test the defroster heating element? With the bottom tray of the refrigerator section is very obvious. Should this be disconnected on both ends and then checked for continuity? What if continuity is ok?

  • ergbtn1 Apr 23, 2009

    Refrigerator Brand GE

    Model number GBS18HBRAWW

    Serial number FG903440V



    I have checked the defrost element and it is ok. How do I check the defrost thermostat? Is there a wiring diagram available on the internet?



    Ron G.

  • ergbtn1 Apr 24, 2009

    Ben,



    I poured a cup of warm water down the drain and it drained perfectly. The last tech said something about a defrost thermostat. How do I check this out? Is the small round cylinder that is attached to the metal pan under the coils a freeze switch?



    Tnx

    R G

  • ergbtn1 Apr 24, 2009

    I did not get an answer about my last reply. The comment was that I poured a cup of warm water down the drain and it was open all the way to the drain pan. The last question was how do I check the defrost thermostat and what is the small round cylinder attached to the tray under the coils, is that a freeze switch?

  • ergbtn1 Apr 24, 2009

    I only got one e-mail informing me of a suggestion. Luckily I didn't delete the e-mail and had it to get to the web site on every occasion.



    Thanks

    R G

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CLICK HERE for expanded blowout views of your fridge.

You could be talking about the Dryer (part 123 on the UNIT PARTS diagram)
Or the thermostat #10 on the CABINET diagram.

These are both near coils. One evap. coil, the other condernser coils.


Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost thermostat.

Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.

  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.

  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.

  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.

  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.

  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

Use the "Continue with this expert" feature if you cannot locate your part.
(or you could take a picture and post it)

Without actually seeing it - it is hard to guess about what you are seeing.

If you find your part - Parts Select is a very trustworthy (and priced right) site to order from.

Let me know!!

Thanks!

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

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It sounds like your drain hole may be clogged and so the moisture is having trouble getting out. It may be clogged with ice and your hair dryer doesn't get it because you don't aim for it and only got the coils which in fact were not the problem. I would leave the unit unplugged overnight to totally defrost it and I would try seeing it anything is clogged up the drain by running a tube or something up it to free it up if needed.


Benjamin

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

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The evaporator must not ice up in this way. If it does, then it is not working fine.
To test the element continuity put a multimeter on ohms (impedance) and check if the element have infinite impedance, if it does, there is no continuity and element is broken.
If element is fine, then check the defrost thermostat.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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Plz provide brand name and model no.

thanks

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • Asfiya Ahamed
    Asfiya Ahamed Apr 23, 2009

    Remove the rear panel inside the freezer section and you will see silver evaproator coils.  Underneath these coils is a drain pan.  Using a hair dryer, defrost all the ice and then unblock the drain line.  Reassembly and all should be fine.


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I have removed the bottom tray of the refrigerator section which exposes the coils, fan, drain line leading from the evaporator area and using a hair drier I have defrosted the unit. All works well for a few days or maybe even a week and then the problem starts over.

note of interest; this unit is installed in my garage. The installation is near Houston Texas. Very humid during the summer. Season of the year seems to have no bearing on occurences. How do I test the defroster heating element? With the bottom tray of the refrigerator section is very obvious. Should this be disconnected on both ends and then checked for continuity? What if continuity is ok?

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

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1 Answer

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Sounds like you have ice buildup next to the evaporator fan that circulates air inside the fridge. Ice buildup happens due to too much moisture - door open for extended periods, leaky door seal, heating system meant to de-ice the fridge not doing its job. You can approach this two ways. Unplug and leave both sides of the fridge open for at least 24 hours to let it thaw, or open up the fan cover and thaw it with a hair dryer (fridge unplugged ofcourse). Option two is faster, but more labor intensive. This wont solve the underlying problem of ice buildup, but will get rid of the noise for some time (likely months).

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