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Westinghouse RP423 Freestyle fridge cooling failure

Westinghouse Freestyle RP423 fridge is not cooling at all. Fidge light is working, thermostat relay clicks, no compressor noise whatsoever, 240VAC fine as measured at (what appear to be) the compressor terminals

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  • 4 more comments 
  • herman985 Apr 24, 2009

    Hi Sea Breeze,
    Indeed, the motor makes no sound whatsoever, and gives every indication (audible-wise) that it is not turning over. As such, the compressor is not working either i.e. not hot or warm, or anything really. 
    A possible cause might be the defrost switch. From what I can determine, it appears that the defrost cycle timer/switch is combined with the thermostat inside the fridge compartment, but I find it difficult to say whether it might be stuck in defrost mode, or whether the compressor motor has simply failed. Any advice on what to look for?


  • herman985 Apr 24, 2009

    Forgot to add, no fan of any kind is evident (although I assume they must be there), and I certainly can't hear one working either on top of the compressor or behind the evaporator. 

  • herman985 Apr 25, 2009

    Thank you for the reply. Actually I’m in New Zealand, not
    the UK, but the voltage is the same, 240, not 120VAC

    Prior to reading your last message, I’d already gone ahead
    and traced the fault to the thermostat/defrost switch unit. I bypassed the
    switch and, as a result, the compressor/motor powered up and worked just fine.
    Your advice on testing the motor is useful though, so thanks for that.

    So the problem is definitely in the thermostat/defrost cycle
    switch unit, and I’m assuming that it is stuck in the defrost mode. I could
    easily remove the switch unit, but for, what would appear to be, the
    temperature sensor wire. This wire cannot be disconnected i.e. it comes
    directly out of the switch unit and runs behind the evaporator plate at the
    back of the fridge. So it looks like I’m going to have to carefully move aside
    the evaporator plate to see if that wire can be removed.

    All the other electrical wiring, including what would appear
    to be a 20 K-Ohm heating loop for the defrosting, can be unplugged from the
    switch unit.

    Any further recommendations for testing the switch unit in
    any form or manner? Thanks Sea Breeze. 

  • herman985 Apr 25, 2009

    Indeed, Sea Breeze, a diagram would be very useful.

    Here is what I could find in terms of fridge identification:


    On fridge Door: Westinghouse Freestyle

    Inside the fridge: Model code RP423BQ-RWZ  serial no 90340 263   Made in Australia by Emall Ltd.


    The combined thermostat/defrost cycle switch also has a
    number; it’s somewhat hard to make out but it appears to read as:


    Danfoss EN60730-2-1-25T65 (it mentions it’s a 240VAC unit)


    Now, the only part on this switch unit that could possibly
    rotate (apart from the obvious thermostat dial) is a very small allen key hex
    bolt, recessed into the back of the unit. And when I say small I mean small; I
    don’t have anything that fits it. Would this be the defrost timer adjustment?


    One further observation:

    After I had visually examined the switch unit (I’d moved it
    about a bit to read the serial number) I plugged the fridge back into the mains supply
    just to see if the fridge would magically start; to my amazement it did!
    However, the joy lasted only as long as it took for the fridge to cool down to
    the requisite thermostat setting. It then switched off, as it should have, but
    alas never came back on again later.  

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 11, 2010

    The motor makes no sound like its trying to start? Lower fan and upper fan in freezer working? Touching the top of compressor is it hot to touch? Let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

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  • 4,655 Answers

I am going to assume you are in the UK. the voltage is higher than most household refrigerators here in the USA. Disconnect power to refrigerator and check continuity on two of the three terminals of the compressor at a time until you measure the resistance in the windings all the way around. The terminals should be marked R, S and C. (Run, Start and Common) you should get a reading with your multimeter all the way around. When you have done this and have the readings I want you to touch one end of your multimeter to the metal pipes or any clean metal outside the compressor and the other to one of the three terminals one at a time like you tested before. With your multimeter set up the same, see if you get a reading from metal housing to the three pins, or terminals c, r and s. You should get no reading. If you do, the compressor is a burn out and on the first test if you don't get a reading on the two at a time test between two post that is considered to be open or broken windings. The compressor does have an internal overload that may be open also. But if cool at time of test, and it shows up the compressor in bad. Let me know what you find...Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Apr 25, 2009

    OK, we are going to need some different numbers to locate the exact Westinghouse Refrigerator. Don't take too much apart until I can find a diagram. Here is what I need in photo below. If it is the defrost timer then timer can be turned slowly clockwise and the refrigerator should come on. Model RP423 does not come up on my source listings. I did leave out that during testin compressor the wires must be removed from the compressor terminal post. But since you bypassed the defrost timer I think the problem is the defrost timer. Please let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze



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