Sears garage door keypad/remote programming problem
I need a little help with a Sears garage door opener and it's devices.
For years I had a functioning keypad and remote door opener. A few months ago I added a button in my car and now the keypad doesn't work - but it's more bizarre than that.
If I clear out all the codes from the opener (hold SRT button for about 6 seconds), I can get either the keypad or the remote to work, whichever I do first. But the other one seems to get locked out.
I can get the car button programmed using the remote, but not with the keypad (which I took off the wall to work with).
I've tried all combinations of programming sequences and the one in the manual (hold device button and push SRT button simultaneously) works for the first attempt (after deleting all the codes), but not subsequent attempts.
All the devices seem to work, but not simultaneously. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a Model 139.53615SR Vintage (7/91) and need re-programmng instructions. No manual available from the previous homeowner and don't know the previous keypad code. Can anyone help me?
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This multi code device can be programmed. Make sure the battery is good. Linear.com has all the manuals and directions for coding in. make sure and get the model number of the opener and the keypad. Thanks BB
Hi All, I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!): As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program). And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work). But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote??? Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works! For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4. I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!