Question about Necchi 4575 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Spool of thread doesn't fit spool pin

I've had this machine a few years but have just tried to use it. My Singer needs repair. Anyway the spools of thread that I have do not fit all way on the pin. The pin is flared at the bottom. The owner's manual doesn't mention anything unique regarding the spool pin or thread to be used. I tied to get an explanation at a fabric store but they don't believe it. Hopefully this is something simple. I believe I'm threading the machine properly. Since the spool doesn't go to the base of the pin, the thread breaks after a few stitches.

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  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: I am hemming blue jeans. The top stitch looks

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really .....actually .....need adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

Best Wishes
Bargain Box in Australia

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: my daughter said it locked up after reverse stitch

The race is not in place or the needle may be bent.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: The bobbin thread breaks

if upper thread is breaking
1. needle in backward
2.upper tension to tight-check manual for proper setting
3.needle maybe bent-try rolling needle on flat surface to see if it's bent & if so replace
4.thread may hang on bobbin case-check area for lent or fragments of old threads
5. knotty or cheap thread-always use good quality thread
if lower thread is breaking
1.the most probable cause of lower thread breaking is an inproperly wound bobbin
2.bent bobbin
3.lint built up in case
4. thread catching on a spring or latch

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: why does the shuttle hook grab the spool thread

The shuttle hook is suppose to hook the needle (spool) thread and loops it around the bobbin case to form the lock stitch. Is it possible that something was adjusted without proper clearances as to allow the thread looping around the bobbin case to do so without catching up where it should pass through freely?

Posted on Nov 13, 2010

  • 2510 Answers

SOURCE: I have two problems the

Check the bobbin tension and that the thread is tight around the bobbin. Make sure that the bobbin is in the right way around - the bobbin thread should double back on itself coming out of the bobbin holder.

Posted on Feb 24, 2011

  • 2510 Answers

SOURCE: bobbin thread is straight across

Reduce the bobbin thread tension. It is done by loosening the little screw on the bobbin case. It is a sensitive adjustment so turn about 1/8 of a turn at a time.

Posted on Mar 31, 2011

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If unsuccessful, a spool pin can be made using a small wooden dowel, a cut off plastic knitting needle, or taking a pin off a donor machine, or a variety of other items. There are also standalone thread stands that can be purchased that will set on the table behind your machine.


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Thread breakage is often caused by a burr on the needle. Whenever i have a problem with thread breakage, I unthread the machine, replace the needle, and rethread.
Sometimes thread will wrap around the spool pin, so I use the upright spool pin or use a mug or water glass to hold the spool upright behind the machine.

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You will need a parts list, and unfortunately, the Singer site doesn't list one. However, I would point out that there are two machines complete on eBay right now for $20.00.

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I\'m not sure what you mean by "reel", but if you are referring to the spool pin which holds your thread, then you don\'t really have to have that. I use a spool stand instead. Then I can use any kind of thread without having to buy the little bitty spools. This is just an example of one style of thread holder. It is by far the cheapest way to replace a missing thread pin.

Amazon com Single Cone Thread Stand With Metal Base Thread Cone Rack

Some people also use a simple cup, and drop the thread inside, so that it doesn\'t unroll all over the work surface. Then thread the machine normally. If the thread needs to be directed to the first spot, a binder clip, attached to the handle of your machine, works really well as an extra "eye" to put the thread through, and secures it quite well.

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Flip the presser switch up to raise the presser foot. Turn the hand wheel counterclockwise until the needle is in its highest position.
  • 2Hold the hand wheel in place with your left hand while turning the hand wheel knob counterclockwise with your right hand to loosen the hand wheel knob.
  • 3Place the desired spool of thread on the spool pin so that the pin fits all the way through the hole in the center of the spool. Put the spool holder onto the end of the spool pin that is sticking through the spool of thread and press firmly to ensure that the spool holder keeps the spool in place.
  • 4Grasp the end of the thread and hold it taut between the thumb and index fingers of both hands. Snap the taut section of thread into the thread guide post located to the left of the spool pin.
  • 5Pull the end of the thread gently. Wrap the thread around the bobbin winder tension disk near the left front on top of the machine, starting at the side of the tension disk facing you and wrapping around in a clockwise direction.
  • 6Poke the end of the thread through the small hole in the bobbin from the inside out so that the loose end of the thread sticks through the top of the bobbin. Put the bobbin on the spindle, or bobbin winder, and gently slide the bobbin winder to the right.
  • 7Hold the loose end of the thread in place while pressing down on the foot pedal to start the machine. Hold the foot pedal down until the bobbin is as full as desired. The machine will automatically stop once the bobbin has reached capacity.
  • 8Cut the loose end of the thread using scissors. Slide the bobbin winder to the left and remove the bobbin. Hold the hand wheel in your left hand and tighten the hand wheel knob with your right hand by turning it clockwise
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    3. Slide spool pin holder/cap (illustration 2) firmly over rim of spool to prevent thread from tangling.

    1. Push in indent (illustration 1) on hand wheel disc. This will stop the needle from moving.
    2. Place spool of thread on spool pin.
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    4. Lead thread passing it first through the lower slot of the thread guide. Next through the upper slot, leading the thread to the right and around (illustration 3).
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    11. Press the bobbin winding indent on hand wheel to its original position. If necessary, turn hand wheel to engage needle movement.


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