Light switch appears to have failed. Light sometimes come on when the door is opened but now, it does not come on regardless of toggleing the switch.
I have an 8 year old GE Profile side-by-side refrigerator. It works fine except that in the past few months, the interior lights will not go on when the door is opened. I toggled the small rotator switch on the upper inside of the door and sometimes, the light will come on. I removed the switch today and examined it but no apparent breakage and the two wired are securely fastened to the terminals. Now, the light will not come on regardless of toggling or repeated pressure on the switch.
I assume the switch has failed but cannot find a part number nor anything on the GE troubleshooting website to solve this problem.
Can you help?
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Re: Light switch appears to have failed. Light sometimes...
This may be as simple as changing the bulb and not the switch. There is a good chance the bulb was loose and barely making a connection or the filament in the bulb was about to burn out. If this has been helpful please rate the solution.
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If it runs when you hold the switch but intermittently when the door is closed, you might need to either replace the switch or the toggle on the door. See if you can bend or adjust the toggle on the door that closes the switch to fix it or if you can't, try replacing it first since it is the cheapest solution. Switch, based on what you posted, sounds fine. Who knows, maybe one is simply depressed from slamming the dryer door closed too many times?
door switch fail just need to change it or free it up. you will find a switch on the door behind a rubber gromet the door open the light comes on door close the light goes out and the switch tell system doors closed. more common to be the drivers door as this is the most used door. failing that there is a second switch in the door lock mechanism to get to this one you need to take the door card off, these can sometimes get damaged if some try to jimmy the door.
really sounds like a linkage is off somewhere, could be up at the release inside the door,Sometimes hard to see. Could also be in need of some oil. make sure inside handle is not broke also. hope this helps and good luck.
It may be as simple as a failed door switch. It would appear one of the switches has failed "open" keeping the light on and not allowing the locks to lock. Check each switch to see if you can find an issue with one, perhaps the plastic plunger broke and when the door closes it will not open the switch.
Please let me know if this assisted or if you need additional help.
I tried pushing in the light switch again, and i pushed it in until it stopped, evedently it is a 2 postion switch, when the door locks it pulls the door up tight, and the switch must sense this, so after I pushed the toggle in flush the lock finished locking and while I was still holding in the light switch I pushed the stop/cancle button and the lock opened up,and vola we could use the oven again, we had pizza.
Our Ford Expedition & an Olds Silhouette Premier & both did the same thing. Someone online said to spray the inside door where the metal connects with the frame & sensors are there with WD-40. We did & it fixed the problem. Maybe this will work for yours.
Generally speaking if the refrigerator does not cool and you have frost on the back wall of the freezer it suggests a defrost problem. However since the refrigerator started working by itself it would point to an air circulation problem from the fan in the freezer compartment failing to operate. The frost on the back wall without the fan operating would cause frost buildup because the heat is still trying to get to the coil through the back wall. If your refrigerator freezer has a door fan light switch something holding the door partly open would cause the fan not to operate. Look for a button or toggle and manually push it in. You should hear the fan turn on and the light will go off.