Question about Ryobi 30 Cubic Centimeter Curved Shaft Gas Trimmer
I got this from my neighbor who couldnt keep it started.
After alot of pulling I had the same problem.
- I replaced all the gas lines, but the one of two lines going to the primer bulb appears to still leak. I pulled the bulb assembly off and slid a similiar line of both connections, the longer fuel inlet tab appeard to be tighter (this is the line that draws fuel) the shorter tab which pushes fuel is the one that i believe leaks.
- When it starts it will run choked, dies when choke is turned second position.
- I have cleaned the carb, diaphram appears in good shape.
- Another thing, there is a line with a filter coming from the tank, and a second line that just pushes through the wall of the tank? Am I missing a part or is this how it should be.
-What are the correct connection of fuel lines, dont know if i got them wrong, also there is a white plastic splice piece in the line from the tank to the carb? is this correct, seems like a longer line would be more effective?
- How do you get the plastic cap pieces off the (L) and (H) adjustments screws so I can clean these jets out.
I want to get parts but the numbers dont appear to match anything on line>Here are the numbers, can you help out?
YN4XS.0314RA;EM and PPN41D74PG834 and SN 012101186.
Just break off plastic caps to access the low and high speed jets. They are there because of government regulations to prevent users from adjusting carb in the field. They serve no other purpose.
Supply line with filter is suppose to be one piece from the tank to the carb. If it has a barb coupling in the middle then someone must have tried to patch the line at some point. You can get a replacement line and filter as part #682039 by searching online or ebay. Or you can just order line and reuse filter if it is not plugged. Required line is 3/32 ID x 3/16" OD. Both dimensions are critical. To replace line you have to take retaining ring off the bottom of the fitting on the tank (use a knife or scraper to pry it off the bulge in the hose) and push the filter fitting into the tank. Remove from tank through the fill opening. Remove piece of hose that is still on the barb. Push on new section of hose all the way to the top of the barb and right up to the filter. Put other end of hose through tank fill opening and through hole in bottom of tank. Use a piece of wire or a straightened paper clip to guide it to the hole. Pull hose through until the bulge gets to the opening. Pull hose firmly, but carefully so the hose stretches enough to allow the bulge to go into the hole in the bottom of the tank. Stop when the bottom edge of the filter is about 1/8" from the inside bottom of the tank. You should see enough of the barb end sticking through the tank for the retaining ring to be replaced on the outside bottom of the tank. If not enough exposed, pull hose through a little more. Thread line to carb input and insert. Inlet fitting will have barbs or a bulge on it. The return fitting on the carb is a straight tube with no barbs. The line from that fitting (3/32 x 3/16 also, as all lines are) goes to the top (suction side) of the primer. The other side of the primer has a line that returns to the other opening in the tank.
The return to the tank must have a fitting similar to the filter fitting, but without the filter. It is a barbed fitting with a flange ring on the end that is inside the tank and it has the retaining ring on the outside just line the supply side line. It sounds like you are missing that fitting, because you are describing the hose just being pushed up into the tank. Without that barbed fitting in place the tank will leak gas. The bulge in the line caused by the line fitting over the barbs is what seals the opening. You can order a return line kit 147290 from MTD parts that will have the line, the barb fitting and the retainer ring. In a pinch you could get use an 1/8" hose barb from a hardware store and just arefully pull it through the opening so that the bulge in the barb/hose combination is sealing the tank both inside and out. You can get by without the retaining ring. Otherwise look for a junk IDC/Ryan/Ryobi trimmer to scavange parts off of.
Sounds like you may still have a carb problem to deal with. Did you remove the needle valve to make sure it is not stuck or inlet plugged or restricted? Fuel screen clean? May need a diaphragm and gasket set. Good luck.
Posted on May 23, 2009
I had the same problem with my 700r and found that if you remove the internal strainer screan or
( Spark arrestor screan ) that is located inside the carb. the engine will get the proper amount of fuel
and will run out of the choke position. the cause of this problem is usualy due to storeing the trimmer
for long periods of time with fuel still in it witch clogs the screan.
hope this fixes your problem.
P.S. you will have to remove the carb and take off both side covers and use a needle to pop out the
Posted on May 28, 2009
I'm not an expert on trimmers, but I do know that it sounds like the fuel filter located inside the gas tank at the end of a hose is plugged and needs to be replaced. You can pick one up at the local hardware store. Hope this is of help to you.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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