Question about Black & Decker 18", 6.5a Electric Mower

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Black and decker electric mower wiring

I have an older black and decker electric mower with a rectifier bridge.

I need to know how to hook the wires back up to it.

the numbers on the bridge are Taiwan 9010, KBPC2504

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have Black and decker electric lawn mower does not start

one of the problems i found with electric detectors was that they do not tell you if there is a break in the neutral cable so you could have a break there,another problem is that the levers can break inside the cover giving the impression that it should work but is not making contact with the switch ,hope this helps

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

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  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Black and Decker 18 inch electric lawn mower turned off

Try the link at the bottom of this page : "Find Manuals".

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

MNfisherman
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SOURCE: I have an old Black and Decker 18 electric mower

Here is the black and decker website:

http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/CategoryOverview.aspx?cPath=1498.1670

Most the old models where 6 amps. 1/2 hp

You can get another one from ebay or craigslist

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: Black and Decker Electric mower #M2370 lever

you could just try drilling the case out where the lever pivots and put a long nut and bolt to hold the lever in place

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: 19" black and decker electric mower just quit!

check the brush on the motor the one with the black wire usally wears first

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

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1 Answer

If the rectifier is defective would it chip tht circuit bbaker to the power source


Yes almost certainly if it (the rectifier) has gone short circuit, but you should be able to test the rectifier with a test meter; disconnect mains and rectifier, forward and reverse resistance should be low and very high for each diode leg in each direction of test leads (4 diodes if it has 4 wires)
test each leg both ways, or get testmeter with diode test

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You may have an electrical circuit you are plugged into that has too many things running on it. Like appliances etc. To run an electric mower you should have a separate line right from the electrical panel as the mower does draw a lot of power. Most older homes are not wired to run these things. Sometimes a person will hook into a receptacle closest to the outside where they want the hydro run outside and they do not know what all is on that line.

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I have the mm675 18" flip-over handle model. But it seems to have similar workings. One day it just stopped running. I unscrewed the motor cover and noticed that a red wire had burned through where it plugged into an AC terminal on the bridge rectifier atop the motor. I re-attached and it ran OK for awhile, but soon stopped again. This time the terminal on the bridge rectifier to which the wire was attached had broken near its base. I replaced it with a new rectifier (#72256-03) from B&D, The mower ran for awhile, but soon stopped again. Yep, the same terminal on the new rectifier had broken in the same place. By this time, I began to suspect that the real culprit might be a dirty commutator (the copper surface at the top of the motor that the brushes rub against) -- it was black. So polished it to reveal the underlying bright copper with 600 grit sand paper. By then, I'd also determined that Radio Shack sells the same rectifier (RS #276-1185) for a just few dollars (B&D charges about $12.). So far, the mower's running fine. Hopefully, it's fixed. Case closed?

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1 Answer

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I have a Black and Decker Electric mower #M2370, which I would like to use this year before moving to a condo. Last year, the mower was stopping and starting depending on how the lever was positioned. I suspected the wiring so I removed the on-off switch lever. The wiring appears intact. Part of plastic inside the lever maybe broken. Can i use the mower without the lever by just pushing the black button?

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2 Answers

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I had a MM875 go out after some months' service -- it actually went out with a bit of a bang. The problem was a shorted circuit; the weather was hot and the "solid state switch" on top of the motor shorted out. This part wasn't a switch but a bridge rectifier. The original part was specified a bit close to its actual working limits so I bought another (from Radio Shack, no less) that was higher rating -- something like 30 amps at 200 or 400 volts. ITs worked for years.

If it is a bridge then it will have two terminals labelled '~' and one each with the '+' and '-'. The plus and minus go to the motor (keep those connections the same as the original) and the others go to the supply wires.

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6 Answers

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I have repaired mines. It was found in the trash dump, just before street curb side trash collection. It is a very sophisticated lawn mower. It taken me a month to restore it. The problem is the housing is poor design and does not hold the pin switch securely. This is not a simple on/off switch. It is switch module with two momentary switches built in to it to work simultaneously. The hot is a normally open momentary switch and the neutral is a normally closed momentary switch. Two things must occurred simultaneously for the lawn mower to work. The AC hot has to close and the neutral to open. This is a split phase AC motor. The switch has four connectors to it. The first two has black wires to it, for the hot, that is normally open. The second two has a white wire and red wire to it for the motor's start up winding. The orange connects with the plug's white, neutral. A new substitute switch will be two individual momentary switch, one for the two black wires will be normally open and the two for the red and white wires from the motor start coil will be normally close. It will take two fingers to operate the lawn mower. I recommend you to buy a new and each switch from Black and Decker.
The problem with the system is not the switch, but the poorly designed switch box housing. Often, there is nothing wrong with the switch. I tested mines and it works fine. The problem is the switch box housing does not keep the switch in the correct position for the higher tension spring lever to press against it to operate. I use small washers to stack between the rear of the switch inside and reassembled the switch box upside down by turning the handle upside down, so the washers and switch do not fall out. Once I am finished assembling the switch box and position it on the handle, then I position the handle back to the normal top side and attach the handle back to the lawn mower. I am finished.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Split-phase_induction_motor

"Split Phase Motors
Split phase ac motors are widely used for low power applications as for example in oil burners, furnace blowers, garage door openers and major appliances. Such motors employ separate run and start windings connected in parallel across the acpower source. When the motor is initially energized both windings are energized, and when the rotor speed reaches about eighty-five percent of the normal running speed the start winding is disconnected from the circuit. Various devices are utilized forthis latter purpose and include centrifugal switches and current and voltage relays.

A problem which is characteristic of these motors is that they have a relatively short operating life. The principal reason for this is the failure of the switching devices used to cut out the start windings when the rotors approach the normalrunning speeds.Failure of these switching devices in turn cause the start windings to burn out.

One of the reasons for the failure of these switching devices is the high currents which they are carrying at the time the contacts open. Attempts to increase contact life by use of improved designs and materials have not been altogethersuccessful. Another disadvantage associated with these switching devices is that they are necessarily quite large and occupy a substantial space in the motor housing." -from another web site.

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