Question about GE GSS22JF Side by Side Refrigerator

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Freezer Frost and Too Warm No Ice

Hi - i have a GE 22 side by side that is icing up in freezer, and after running three weeks ok, is now blowing not cold enough. ice is barelyforzen, and am running out of time here.
model is GSS22JFMC WWW please help!!

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HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.
Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.
The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.
Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.
This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main ciructit board.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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I hope this works it has for me a few times.
The defrost timer may have stuck, and its building up ice inside the air flow. Sometimes the fan will make a clicking noise.The fan is brushing up on ice. Take every thing out and put into a cooler. Or eat everything all at once , just kidding.
Unplug the unit and let it totaly defrost with the doors open. Pull the unit out from the wall and look on the back, for a small hole. The size a screw driver will fit into. look to see if there is slot to fit a screw driver in to. This would be your timer. Now take the screw driver and turn the timer switch around clock wise several times. This should un stick the switch providing that is only stuck and not totally bad. But they often will stuck before they go bad. I hope you can find the location of the timer, its there some where. Sometimes the applayance will help you, if you tell them what your doing I'm 90% sure its the timer. Good luck

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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Why does The freezer side stays cold but the refrigerator side gets warm


Your problem is more than likely a defrost issue. There is ice building up in the freezer coils and when it gets blocked with ice the cold air cant blow into the fresh food section. When you shut it off the ice melts and it gets cold again for a few days. remove the freezer back panel and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. if they check OK then check the defrost timer. It is best to replace all three components at the same time. This way you will be starting out with new components rather than one failing then the other.

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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

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check that your flapper on the ice shut through the freezer door is fully closed,
make sure there is no ice forming around your evaporator fan, thats the fan in the freezer, if that gets glogged with ice and is forced to stop, it could blow your entire machine control......
the frost in the freezer leads me to believe you may have a defrost issue

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1 Answer

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This can be caused by the drain hole below freezer coil being blocked by ice. You MUST remove all ice in drain under freezer coil. Use turkey baster to squirt hot water into hole and use hairdryer to defrost. Possible defrost thermostat is defective. Unit never goes into defrost, ice forms on coil and in floor of freezer. After defrosting may work OK for a week or two but gradually gets warmer because ice is blocking ports where cool air gets to refrig. May also have water in refrig box. Can also be caused by defective defrost timer.

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Freezer not freezing


Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm

Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

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Defrost cycle not functioning. Could be defrost timer, timer motor, or defrost heater. I detailed this for someone else. see other solutions.

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Hi gpss,
It sounds like you are getting large amounts of warm moist air into the freezer. This can be caused by the door being left cracked open or the door seal not sealing properly. Check your door gaskets on both sides of the refrigerator. One other possible is the ice chute. If it is not closing all the way it will cause the same problem. You will get alot of frost forming in the freezer then it will melt when the refrigerator defrosts. Let me know if this helps, and if you have anymore questions.
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Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
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  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items. 

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