I needed to replace the pull switch, but in doing so the capacitor was disconnected and I do not know where the wires go. It's a five wire, 2 gray,1 green, 1 red, one brown. It's marked 10mfd/5mfd/250vac. Also GY/5R/5BR/5GR. Coming out of the fan is red and black. No light hook-up.

Yes it will

L-Black 1-Gray 2- Brown 3- Purple

If this doesn't work you have the wrong switch. It might look the same on the outside but that doesn't mean it's the same on the inside. You might want to check your capacitor to make sure it's not going bad!

just leave along

I never could find the 5 wire 4 speed replacement. I did however find a solution.
4-speed (five-wire) pull-chain ceiling fan speed switch--Use 3-speed ZE-208S6-A09.
How to use the 3-speed ZE-208S-A09 to replace a 4-speed switch:
old ZE-208S5-1T or ZE-268S5: . . . . . for ZE-208S6-A09 use:
L=Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . L=Black
1=Gray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1=Gray
2=Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (Don't use Brown)
3=Purple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2=Purple
4=Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3=Green
old ZE-208S5-1T or ZE-268S5: . . . . . For ZE-208S6-A09 use:
L=Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . L=Black
1=Gray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1=Gray
2=Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (don't use Green)
3=Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2=Brown
4=Purple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3=Purple

Buy cheap multimeter from hardware to test the wires.
Copy following links for resources
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-3-speed-fan-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Motor-wiring-500.jpg

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I can offer resources:

1) Test switch that was removed, and test for hot connection to narrow down options.

What speed was fan stuck in when switch was removed? Let's say medium speed.
Which connection at fan is hot? Use voltage tester to find hot connection at fan, and match that up with wire-color on switch that was removed.
One and only one wire on 3-speed fan switch connects to hot. And the hot wire is the only wire that connects to each other wire as switch cycles through pull-chain sequence. All pull chain switches follow same sequence: off, low, medium, high.
Let's say old switch was stuck in medium, and you know which color wire connects to hot.
Test switch with continuity tester to see which wire(s) have continuity with hot wire: some switches, it will be 2 wires, and other switches it will be 1 wire. Match where wire(s) were connected, and map that to tests on new switch.

2) Open following link for illustrations and some other links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

Ah.

A simple Capacitor based speed control. How many places do you have to put wires on your switch? You may have mis-wired the switch, or you have the wrong switch.

How it all works is... When you turn the fan to High, or position 1 on the switch (there's L 1 2 and 3) the power goes from 1, to the capacitor, but does not go through the capacitor, but instead goes through the second (probably gray) wire directly to the reversing switch in the switch housing. When you switch to medium (or 2) both 2 and 3 positions on the switch are supposed to be sending power through both capacitors inside of the black box. Basically, you have two capacitors, when you go to medium, both are wired in parallel to each other, but on low, only one is in the circuit. Basically, the switch you have, or have mis-wired, is putting only one capacitor in the circuit at the time on medium and low positions.

Also, do not worry, so long as you only mess with these 4 wires, you cannot blow anything up, However! When you disconnect power from the fan, BE SURE that the fan is "On" when you turn the power off to ensure the capacitor discharges as you can get a very very nasty shock from the bare wires.

Try L-BLACK 1-GRAY 2-BROWN 3-PURPLE. IF THIS COMBO DOESN'T WORK. BLACK WIRE GOES TO L , 123 IS YOUR SPEEDS YOU WILL HAVE HOOK THEM UP BY PROCESS OF ELIMINATION FIGURE OUT WHICH IS HIGH MED & LOW. IT SHOULD BE 1-HIGH 2-MED 3-LOW.

The reverse switch on my Hampton Bay ceiling fan didn't work. I cut the 6 wires; 1 white, 1 gray, 2 pink, 2 yellow. Here's what I did. Removed reverse switch. Had 6 wires white, gray, 2 yellow, 2 pink. Connected gray to yellow, connected white to pink and fan runs fine. Is this OK? I do not need to reverse fan. It's been running for 1 hour now with no problems. Don S.

White is the common, or neutral. There should be a white wire to connect it to.