Question about Cuisinart DCC-1200 Coffee Maker

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Cuisinart dcc-1200 on/off switch not working

It will shut off after only brewing about a quarter of the pot and then once it turns off the toggle switch doesn't work to restart it? Help!

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DCC-1200 shuts off: How to fix it


A couple of weeks ago my DCC-1200 beganshutting off in the middle of the brew cycle, a problem commonlyreported here. I love my DCC-1200, and it ran like a top for the 8years I've had it. Luckily I have a backup coffee maker, so I wasable to take the time to find a fix rather than having to dropanother hundred bucks on a new one. I hope this helps some of you.


Behavior: The coffee maker beganshutting off during the brew cycle. The whole machine would go dead,including the LCD display. Changing outlets did not solve theproblem. Unplugging it and plugging it back in sometimes helped,sometimes not. Left plugged in, sometimes the power would restore andit would work for a time. This got progressively more frequent,though right before it quit working all together I was able to turnit on by pressing the self clean button. Pressure on the faceplateright above that button would shut it down again. I discovered thiswhile following norm49629's advice on cleaning the machine. Afterremoving the faceplate, I could see that any pressure on certainareas of the circuit board would restore or cut power to the entireunit. These experiences led me to conclude that there was an issuewith the circuit board. Please be reasonably sure this is the sameproblem you're having before beginning this repair. My coffeemakerwas out of warranty and I had nothing to lose.


If this is your problem, you will bebaking the circuit board to repair micro-fissures in the circuitrywhich are interfering with its operation. These fissures are causedover time by the repeated heating up and cooling down of thecoffeemaker when you brew. To do this repair you will need to removethe faceplate, so I am including instructions for that based on myexperience with this issue as there were none to be found on Fixyawhen I looked.


To remove the faceplate:


You will need a tiny standardscrewdriver (I used one from an eyeglass repair kit) and a smallishphilips screwdriver. Begin by removing the carafe, the basket (andpermanent filter, if you have one), the water filter, and the inserton the underside of the flip-up lid. With the lid open, you willnotice two round screw covers towards the front of the coffeemaker toeither side of the filter basket. Remove these with the smallstandard screwdriver. This is impossible to do without damaging themsomewhat. Remove the two philips screws underneath .


There are nine clips that need to bereleased to remove the plastic top of your coffee maker. First, pressin on and release the two located on the back just below the lidhinge. With the small standard screwdriver, gently release the sixclips along the top edge of the casing. These are located two inback, near the corners and two along each side. You will have to getup underneath the plastic bezel, be gentle so that you do not bendthe stainless steel housing (if you do, gently bend it back intoplace before you put everything back together). Lay the coffeemakeron its back. The final clip is located in the carafe “nook” tothe back of the drip outlet. The upper plastic portion should nowlift straight up out of the coffeemaker.


With the coffeemaker upright, removethe four philips screws holding the faceplate in place. Remove thefaceplate by pulling it straight out towards you. Unplug the circuitboard. Remove the three screws holding the circuit board I to thefaceplate, being careful not to lose the three clear plastic washers. Remove the clear plastic switch (for the function knob) by releasingthe clips.


These baking instructions are based inpart on the many tutorials to be found online for repairing video andgraphics cards. Preheat your oven on its lowest setting, preferably170˚. Place a piece of aluminum foilon a cookie sheet. Tear off some extra and make three small balls offoil to place the circuit board on. With the circuit board LCD up,position the balls under the upper corners and the center bottom,away from anything important.


Bake at 170˚for 10 minutes. Allow to cool and put your coffeemaker back together.Brew a nice fresh cup for your efforts.


Clean any scale off the parts youremoved before you put things back together. To test your repairbefore reassembly, reinstall the circuit board and plug in yourcoffeemaker. Test all the buttons, switches, and functions. Becareful baking, if your oven doesn't bake as low as 170˚,ask around. My “self clean” button didn't seem to work, so Ire-baked for 10 minutes at 180˚. Idon't recommend doing this. At that temperature the LCD screen turnedblack and the glue melted and spread out. Luckily upon cooling thescreen returned to its normal color, the glue hardened, andeverything turned out fine. I would recommend a longer 15 or 20minute bake at 170˚ rather than ahigher temperature, should you need.


YMMV. Good luck!


P.S. Self clean works fine, fullfunctionality was restored with this fix.

Posted on Nov 22, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • fixed847 Oct 15, 2010

    Thanks for detailed disassembly instructions. I baked the circuit board without benefit. The circular contacts under the coffee selector switch turned out to be the culprit. Repetitive knob turning has warn the contact area. I bent the two metal contacts very slightly and cleaned all contact areas with fine sandpaper. The machine now works perfectly.

  • steventepe
    steventepe Dec 10, 2012

    Awsome Fix Mon ! Now I can make my favorite Blue Mountain Coffee to perfection again ! Thanks

  • hafcanadian A
    hafcanadian A Jun 23, 2014

    Never found that 9th clip in the carafe nook, but the top came off pretty easily anyway, except for the two below the lid hinge; just pushing in and up only cracked plastic. You need to press one flat blade down from the top to gently pry the back of the coffeemaker body out to make room for the tab to let go of the hole in the back, and then another blade under the top edge sideways prying up so the tab moves up and clears its hole, one tab/clip at a time. Anyone know what sort of white sealant was used? I had to cut through a lot of it to get the two top screws out and along the edge of the front bezel. I tweaked the contact prongs for both the toggle switch and the selector switch as per fixed847's fix, and carefully inspected the board for microcracks at solder points; none found, but they are what was haywire with relays on our old microwave, so I knew what to look for. I'll put the thing in the oven at 170 for 15 mins. anyway, but won't the grease and other volatiles smoke up my wife's oven?

  • Anonymous Jun 13, 2016

    works perfect i put the board in a convection toaster over for 18 min at 175 F. FIXEd

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  • 85 Answers

Hello rw,
Your described problem may be one of two problems. Let's start with the easier solution first. In the DCC 1200 there is a filter "stick or column" in the left rear. Pull it out and remove the clogged carbon filter(s) that are in there. Shine a light into the receptacle and remove the debris in the bottom. It is likely that this is causing the problem with you machine needing to be started on multiple times. See if this solution works. If it does, you might run 8 cups of water and 4 cups of vinegar through to help decalcify the units plumbing. Do this once or twice and then rinse with at least one pot run-through of clean water. If this works then you are good to go.
Next, if this does not solve your problem we can do the following: unplug the unit and lay it on its back. You will need a #10 torx driver (hardware store if you don't have one) to remove the bottom cover plate. There are 4 torx screws holding it on. When removed, you will find 2 orange hoses. Carefully attempt to remove the left hose without splitting. I used a eyeglas screwdriver to loosen it up. If it splits, just cut off the split and stretch it to reconnect when time comes. As you look into the hose you will find a little black valve inside as well a some gunk. Clean it all out with a fine wire as best you can. Rinse well. Attempt to reconnect the hose back onto the pipe. Slip the pipe clamp back into place. Replace the cover and screws and you should be good to go again. This is not as daunting as it may seem. You can do it. :o) Good luck! If this answer helps, please leave positive feedback for me. Much appreciated. Regards, NormanZ

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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Hello d_a_laroque,
This is a really common problem with the cuisinarts. I am most familiar with the DCC-1200, but you may be able to still solve the problem. The shutting down mid cycle is an indication that something may be plugged up. Open the top of the unit and in one of the corners you should find a filter stick or column that is removable. Pull it out and open it up to clean out the clogged up carbon filter in there. (You can later buy a new filter on Amazon.) Clean out the debris from the bottom of the cavity. Replace the stick into the cavity once cleaned. Now it's time to run through a solution of 2 parts water and 1 part vinegar. Do this once or twice with fresh solutions, then with a pot of fresh water. When the filter stick is plugged up the sensor says its time to clean it, but most people don't know about this fix. I hope this is helpful to you, d_a_larocque. Positive feedback is appreciated. Good luck. NormanZ

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