Sub hum when amp goes up

Sub Amp with stock head unit write up JKowners com Jeep Wrangler JK...

I included a link which provides information on the hook up. It is not specific to your car, but it may have some good pointers.
You haven't specified what problems you are having with the hook up. If you provide a detailed description of the problem , I may be able to help further.

Most of the cars have 90 amp alternators and that might be a little on the small side. Also be sure that you use the right guage wire and capacitors on the supply.

each speaker in your car runs the wiring thru an amp. So each spkear has its own amp for the bose system. You can not hook up a none bose radio If you do you will need to run new wires and replace all the speakers. Sorry.

First disconnect the CD head unit from the sub amp and see if the other amp works. If yes, the problem is the wires to the amp, the amp itself, or the subs/sub wiring. If no, the problem is the head unit--probably an internal short.
If the other amp works with the sub amp disconnected, reconnect the sub amp to the head unit, but disconnect the sub wires from the amp. Try the CD player. If the amp goes to protect with no speaker wires attached, the amp is bad. If the amp is OK, the problem is the subs or sub wires. Hook the wires up to the amp again, but disconnect them from the speakers. Try the player again. If the amp goes to protect, the problem is the amp wiring. If not, the problem is the subs. Check the impedance of each sub using an ohmmeter to determine which amp is out of spec.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya.

Ok, being an old-school "back yard" installer when i began, gave me 2 immediate possible diagnosis for your problem. I was running a Kicker zx550.3 amp to 2 Polk DB 12'inch Subs rated 600w max 1500w. I also used a LOC converter (Line Output Converter) in order to use my stock Bose stereo since it did not have RCA outputs. Now shortly after running this setup (approx 2 weeks) I noticed a substantial drop in sound output and also noticed some ground noise/distortion coming thru the subs. After tracing my wires that connected my LOC to the Amp, and Rear Speaker Wires of my Radio to the LOC, I noticed that by jostling the wires there was a connection issue. If you are using your factory radio to power your regular component speakers (tweeters, coax, mids) then chances are your stereo feeds into a FACTORY INSTALLED amplifier. If thats the case, then you need to access a Wiring Diagram for the Harness coming off the Factory Amplifier! Once this is viewable, check the wiring and locate the "Amplifier to Radio Signal Wires" and also the "Amplifier to Speakers Signal Wires" ... Now go back to your LOC and look at the wires you tapped to get the Line Signals to the converter, and make sure that you havent tapped your lines off of the AMPLIFIER TO SPEAKER wires. These wires carry a small electrical current because they are coming powered from the Amplifier, and most Line Output Converters are PASSIVE, which could short the signal the LOC creates thus reducing your signal gain, but does have the capability to surge back to the Factory Amplifier, which could possibly melt the shielding of the factory wiring, and thus allow your signal to cross or ground out! If you can, try running another RCA input to your Sub-Amplifier from another source other than your car, and see if your protection lights go out and the amp returns to normal operation. If so then your LOC or Factory amp is to blame. If not, then the second diagnosis is much simpler, which is your Alternator current has been reduced due to many different possibilities, and you should acquire a .5 or 1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor which will reduce the excess draw from your charging system. But due to the first solution being my problem exactly, im willing to bet your's lies along the same variables... GL to you!

Neither the amp or the sub have grounded power cords.

I have discovered the ML Dynamo takes about 30 minutes to switch to standby in auto mode.

With speaker level inputs connected to the Onkyo A807 amp, both units powered from the same wall outlet, Dynamo sub on Auto, the sub hums for about half an hour after the Onkyo is switched off, then the sub goes quiet. Not so good.

I connected a bonding wire between the two units on 3_7_09. If I smoked some old audio gear I could just look at that as an opportunity, right?

Works fine. Now I have the ML powered from the wall and working normally.

chev stock radio does not have extra plug in for sub. to run your sub, im assumed you also going to run an amp to it also. there are no addition plug in in the back, but that does not stop anyone if you know how to rig things. i would not recommend rig wires on your 2007. I would install a new radio before rigging that car; than add a sub. keep in mind most of GM radios come with stock amp built into the radio itself. If you cut the wires from the radio and wire it to your sub amp you will get nothing but distorted sound. anything sound goes to any amp need to be pre-amp in order to work properly. hope that help some

Hello william_pric,

Look on the speaker output terminals to see if there is an indication, usually a line between the positive (+) on one to the negative (-) on the other, with the word "bridged". If the bridging terminals are not indicated, you can always try one of the positives and the other negative. If there's no sound, it must be the other two terminals. Just be careful that you don't short the terminals, and don't crank the volume up without the sub connected. Some amps don't like an infinite load.

For an input to the amp from a stock OEM radio, your best solution is to use a "line out converter", connected to the rear speaker wires. The PAC SNI-45T shown in the link is one such device. This one includes a "remote turn-on" lead for the amp. You could use a cheaper LOC and just run 12V from an accessory lead on the truck. In this case, the amp will turn on and stay on whenever the ignition switch is in the "on" or "accessories" position. If this is objectionable, mount a SPST switch somewhere convenient and wire the turn-on wire through it.

Hope this helps.

Hello blown1914,

That appears to be a good amp and should power your subs with no problem.

You will want to install a line-level converter to your stock speaker outputs and use RCA cables to the amp. Here's a link to SonicElectronix line-level converters. The PAC SNI-35 is OK if your stock radio has a remote turn-on lead. If not, you should probably look at the PAC TRUNK-LOC. It still a 2-channel line output converter but also includes a trigger output to power on your amp.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i331_line-out-converters.html

I tried Interfire's web site to see if they have a downloadable manual for your IB2400c amp. I could not find it, so it may be that it is no longer in print or no longer available.

You may want to go to their support page (link attached) and send them an email.

http://www.interfireaudio.com/contact.html

Hope this helps.

telll sterio use sub out and remix on in settings menu on steiro ok also does it have speaker wires in and out use them off fornts ch from sterio then back up throw sub to fronts set cross over on 100 or so