Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

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Dead Control Panel - F7

I have a similar problem that DeadOven posted on 1/22/07, but my oven would automatically turn on the broiler, beep until I hit the clear button. It would repeat this several times then the code F7 would appear. Now the panel is locked. I wassn't sure what Krazytech meant by the ribbon cable. Where is this found and will this solve my problem?

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Easiest fix: open the circuit breaker for the stove...wait a minute and reset. Should get you going.

Posted on Dec 13, 2007

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1 Answer

What do I do about oven beeping?


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Well, F7 error code occures due to
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B = Bad clock Unstick button or
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Replace the ERC there are ten screws 3 on each side and 4 on the control leave the hex screws alone all you need is a phillip screwdriver.
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Thanks

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Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
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If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

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It depends on the actual model number (that you didn't supply), but most Kenmore F7 errors indicate a bad keypad or bad control panel. If you unplug the ribbon cable from the keypad to the panel then plug the oven back in and it starts beeping again, it's a bad control panel, if it doesn't beep anymore, it's a bad keypad.

Please unplug the oven power with working on it.

Geno

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I used what Charlie recommended ...” post-it” as insulation
And works PERFECTLY….
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I just read that the electronic panel malfunctions due to rear burner use. Now, I know that mine gets REALLY HOT in between the back burners (where the heat exhaust for the oven is) whenever I bake/broil. I am guessing that it can cause the same malfunction fromt he oven, as with the backburners. Whenever I use both back burners, mine shows F7 E6, too. Unplugging it for the night or just waiting til the beeping stops and then clearing it works... until I cook again. I read that the replacement part for the control panel is about $300 and another $200, more or less, to install it! I think this is more like a recall or manufacturer's problem. I have read plenty of complaints and I think GE needs to make a call to fix them!!

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When I had a similar problem, the door wouldn't unlock even after unplugging, waiting 30 minutes, and plugging the oven back in. I finally had to manually unlock the oven by turning the lock latch motor myself.

Here's a good page that describes what the lock latch motor looks like and where it's located. Of course, there is 220V current running around inside there, so please unplug before removing the back access cover and put it back on before plugging the oven back in.

My symptoms:
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