Question about Frigidaire FRS26H5AS Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

The freezer coils keep freezing up. - Frigidaire FRS26H5AS Side by Side Refrigerator

Posted by on

Ad

2 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

First check the defrost coil for continuity, it should be approx 22 ohms, if it is open then you have a problem with the defrost thermostat or the coil. If all is good at the defrost coil then check the 8hrmer 30 min timer located on my refigerator at front bottom left. You can see the revolving part of the timer through a hole, mark it with a pencil and see if it moves, if not replace.

Posted on May 24, 2009

Ad
  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 19 Answers

Make sure all fans are spinning, lack of air flow could cause this problem. also make sure everything is sealed up, no leaks in the door etc...possibly could be low freon charge. make sure that the condensor coil itself is clean. there needs to be good airflow across that coil.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore bottom freezer keep freezing up.

just called in a sears technician 150 dollar bill that was an easy fix. he says my bottom freezer kenmore fridge with warm fridge problem was due to the pathway being blocked by ice and garbage which is common with these fridges. he took off cover from the fridge bottom and poured boiling water down to the freezer. try that before you replace any parts or call in a tech. next time im getting a top freezer because the blower is on the top not in the middle with the bottom freezers and thus more problem prone.

Posted on Aug 15, 2008

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: coils in freezer freezing up

You have a defrost problem.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

Healeyman
  • 1198 Answers

SOURCE: My freezer coil keeps freezing up. I replaced the

In the freezer coil is a defrost heater coil, and a defrost thermostat. You have to expose the freezer coil to find them. If your local dealer can't get parts, I get mine from Repairclinic.com.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Freezer coils keep freezing up.

I had a similar problem with a Maytage Side-by-SIde Model MDZ2768GEW, (purchased in 2001). Defrost not working...poor cooling in both the freezer and fridge. We opened up the back of the Freezing side and the coils were iced. This Model is auto defrost so obviously something was not working. We called a Sears repair office and they sent a guy that told us we needed to defrost the unit. Well...I wasn't home and my father-in-law didn't question it - he defrosted it! I was busy at the time and didn't pursue it until the problem naturally resurfaced a month or so later. Not wanting to haggle with Sears over their Tech's lazy incompetence (or the $100 I was out), I decided to commence troubleshooting. I'm an ex Navy nuke electrician and electrical engineer so this didn't seem to be beyond my ability. Not having the Owners Manual, I internet searched until I found this site: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/html/index.html. You can download your model's Service Manual and root around for other tech info their. I found the manual for mine and performed the troubleshooting for the Adaptive Defrost Control. Its fairly easy to do and you don't have to empty the entire fridge. You do have to empty the upper shelf in the fresh food (cooler) side to gain access to the controls. --This may not be in the exact order needed but you remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover and sliding it forward (slotted attachment - no screws). Next Remove several screws holding the fascia / radiant shield on. Then remove screws that mount the control housing to top of fridge, etc. I also removed two screws that mount the ADC to the plastic housing to get access to the ADC. Basically, remove enough screws to lower the top assembly down to get to the ADC... --You may need to turn off the fridge now (or do it before you started the previous steps but the light helped me). If you are not using a Wattmeter, I don't think you need to pull the power cord. --The Service Manual next says to attach a Wattmeter to the fridge (and assumedly plug it back in). Most people don't have a Wattmeter...but what I had is a clamp-on ammeter...which you can get as part of "better" multi-meters for well under $100. An ammeter is good enough if you know how to multiply voltage and current to get VA (or approximately) Watts. Any idiot can do this...I think. P(Power) = V x I x pf. What you calculate with VxI is Apparent Power (VA). You convert to "real" power (Watts) by multiplying VA x pf. You generally have to guess at pf, but 0.8 for a motor/compressor is a good approximation and 1.0 for a heater or indandescent light bulb is roughly good. Enough electrical basics... --With Fridge plugged in, and being careful not to touch exposed connections, move the ADC control board so you can gain access to it (2 screws were removed previously to loosen it from the housing at top/back right of fresh food side). The ADC is a small printed ckt board about 3" x 3". --Use a small insulated jumper (or insulated alligator clip) and jumper Pins labeled "L1" and "Test". These are labeled on the PC board and were the two left-most pins, side by side, on my ADC. The Manual doesn't say whether to leave the jumper on or not. I tried both ways and I believe all you need to do is momentarily jumper the two pins (but my ADC wasn't working right, which I will get to later)...so I'm a bit unclear on this part. Also - DO NOT jumper between any other pins, or you may damage the ADC, if it's not toast already. The pins are close together so you need to take some care in doing this. --According to the Service Manual, you should read about 500-600 Watts of total power consumption if the unit is in Defrost mode. I found (referring to the electrical schematic), the main red power wire (ty-wrapped to a green/yellow wire that goes to the main lights). Power is red so it's process of elimination to find the "right" red wire. It's not that hard to figure out. I also confirmed this by playing with the door switch light and watching amps go up and down as I pressed & released the door switch. Ultimately, I measured about 2.2 Amps with the unit working normally (cooling) and 6 Amps in Defrost mode...and about 120 Vac supply. So...VoltsxAmps=VA, which equates to 720VA. I don't know what the power factor of the unit is...but with the compressor and freezer fan off, and only the defrost heater and lights on...the power factor would be close to 1.0. So my reading might have been a touch high but...what it did prove is that a) the heater works (I could feel heat off of it and I had the freezer panel removed and saw it melting ice), and b) the thermostat was working. --I also confirmed proper thermostat operation by measuring it "open" with an ohmmeter after the defrost cycle and measuring it "closed" once it cooled down enough (book says ~ 45F thermostat opens and ~15F it closes (to allow defrost when commanded by ADC). --What I found was that when I jumpered L1 and TEST, the Defrost didn't come on...until I manually turned the Freezer control off - and then back on again. Once I did this it started Defrosting (amps rose from about 2 to 6, compressor and freezer fan shut off and heater started heating. I repeated this twice after waiting for the unit to cool down after the defrost cycle. You can also just unplug the fridge to terminate the Defrost cycle and if the temp hasn't risen above the thermostat setpoint, you can immediately repeat jumper testing as necessary. --The defrost heater stayed on for about 5-8 minutes and after a total of 23 minutes the compressor/fan restarted - which matched what I read somewhere - though doesn't match the ADC Instruction Manual - which I show a website for further down. --So it appears the ADC is just not entering the Defrost cycle but does exit it properly. I believe that my problem is the ADC as I proved the heater works and the thermostat (as I mentioned earlier). Other than bad/intermittent open wiring, there's nothing else in the circuit and I believe I ruled out a bad connection by taking the thermostat connector apart several times and jostling wires up at the ADC to gain access. According to what I can find, the replacement ADC for my unit is Part No. 12002495. One should verify the P/N for their particular model. You can look at the Instruction Sheet here: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023486.pdf. It also has some info on how the ADC is supposed to work...NOTE: You should verify this P/N with someone, as I will before I order it. FYI...at Partselect.com, they show a replacement PN (their #) as PS2061226, for about $61. I've seen various prices on different sites and this was pretty reasonable. Lord knows what Maytag/Sears would charge. Maybe add a "1" to the front? ;) PartSelect also indicates different "Series" numbers for the same PS number for the ADC...not sure about which one I have so Buyer beware, make sure you resolve this before ordering -- I still have to. Anyway, hope this is helpful to someone out there in cyberspace. I will have to confirm my P/N and then buy the ADC. If anyone out there, esp pros, have any suggestions feel free to chime in. Except if you are the guy that told us to defrost our auto defrost fridge to "fix" the problem, for 100 smackers no less. You Sir, should be caned 100 times for being a slug. No economic stimulus for You!

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: our freezer keeps freezing up and it causes it to

If you tell me the model number found in locations in photo below I can help you.
534e5d3.gif

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

The freezer will not freeze or keep its


Check to condenser coil and make sure it is clean and the fan near it is running when the compressor is on. Check for ice build up in the freezer. If the evaporator coil is iced up the box will run warm. It may be a defrost problem, a dirty condenser, or a refrigerant issue.

Nov 01, 2009 | Continental Freezer Wide Freezer low temp...

2 Answers

Our freezer keeps freezing up and it causes it to


If you tell me the model number found in locations in photo below I can help you.
534e5d3.gif

Jul 13, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer freezes up and don't know if there is a reset


sounds like the condenser is bad, feel the copper coils they should be cold and the condenser should be hot/

May 20, 2009 | Frigidaire Gallery GLHT214TJ Top Freezer...

1 Answer

My freezer coil keeps freezing up. I replaced the


In the freezer coil is a defrost heater coil, and a defrost thermostat. You have to expose the freezer coil to find them. If your local dealer can't get parts, I get mine from Repairclinic.com.

Apr 29, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Coils in freezer freezing up


You have a defrost problem.

Apr 26, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore fridge side by side keeps freezing up


defrost problem,check,freezer fan,remoce freezer back panel,check heater,find and check defrost timer,most are in the frig.if it is manual put it in defrost then check to see if the heater ib the freezer comes on,if it does then you have a bad defrost timer,if not,the freezer heater or terminater(attached to coils)is bad,chevk with your meter,let me know-mike

Feb 03, 2009 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

2 Answers

Kenmore frost free refrigerator


Hi thanks for te question .If all the coils are frosted. no its not going into the defrost cycle. and you also have a problem with a clogged drain thanks the appliance doc

Sep 18, 2008 | Kenmore 18.3 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Samsung fridge RS2545SH every 7 days freezes fridge coil.


Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.
GOOD LUCK, WORK SAFELY..

Aug 12, 2008 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Magtag french door with water and ice despenser door with auto defrost keeps freezing up.


You have a defrost system problem related to the timing device, heaters, or defrost thermostat. Coils for the freezer are inside the back wall and defrosting the surface does not get ice out of coils.
it will not get any better until you have it serviced. This is not normally a project for a do-it your selfer.

May 28, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

True commercial freezer


The ice could be preventing the freezer from freezing properly, try defrosting the unit. if this does not help then this could indicate a more serious problem like a bad temp sensor or refrigerant leak.

Apr 27, 2007 | True 52 cu. ft. / 1472 liter Commercial...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Frigidaire FRS26H5AS Side by Side Refrigerator Logo

221 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Frigidaire Refrigerators Experts

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Sal DeAngelo

Level 3 Expert

2180 Answers

Are you a Frigidaire Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...