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Im not sure what model i have but it wont cool down past 20 and the copper line in the back that was supposed to be covered in that black foam stuff is basically solid ice.
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JUST ROTATE YOUR THERMOSTAT TO THE MAXIMUM AND WATCH IF STARTS COOLING THEN ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT TO YOUR REQUIRED LEVEL LATER ON. iN CASE IT DOES NOT START COOLING CHECK THE COMPRESSOR WHETHER IT IS WORKING, IN CASE YES THEN THERE IS NO GAS IN IT
Don't worry about the line, it is supposed to be the way it is. If you are talking about the condenser coil, located on the back bottom part of the unit, with a small fan in front of it, yes, it is supposed to be hot.
The condenser job is to disipate the heat absorbed by the evaporator (the coil inside the freezer). Make sure the condenser is clean and condenser fan is working, also, make sure there is air circulating thru the back of the unit to help cooling the condenser.
The noises you hear, are probably the defrost coil melting the ice on the evaporator, this function is on a timer and happens 3 or 4 times a day.
if there is ice forming on the back wall of freezer then you have a defrost problem in the freezer,deheater,bimetal switch,defrost timer,all need to be checked-mike
The insulation wrap around it needs to be replaced. Thats the black foam stuff around the pipe.
When it gets old it loses its insulation quality and the the humidity condenses on the pipe.
Wrap it well in new insulation ensuring that all seams and openings are taped, and every square inch of pipe is wraped, but not to tightly. (Compressed insulation lowers efficiency)
the condenser lines are between the walls of the frzr and if it has a fan to cool the compressor down and it is stalled is the reason the walls are so hot and no it will not cool down over time if new is a flaw in making of this unit take it back or if older only the side should be getting warm not hot then if older be cautious of this no repair can be done on these type of unit they are between foam filled walls....
Not real sure just what you are saying as to what pan? The copper pipes that go to the evap plates where the ice is made are supposed to frost over. They get colder than dew point of the air so this is normal. But all the pipes should frost. Does the unit shut down and give any type of beeping noises? This would be the control giving you a trouble code. You may have a water valve leaking. Turn unit off and see if water continues to run. All water should stop within a few seconds. Let me know what you find. Please verify model and serial numbers.
Refrigerators dont loose refrigerant (extremely rare) for the past 20 years .(except Amana ) I think your problem is elsewhere such as : dirty coils , frost on the rear wall (behind panel) indicating a defrost problem , compressor fan or freezer fan not working .
if the compressor is warm that is an indication to me that it is running or at least trying to run. if its running you should feel it vibrating as well as being warm. assuming the compressor is running and it's not cooling I would say you probably have a refrigerant leak and would come out cheaper to replace the unit. repalceing the compressor also is fairly expensive in exess of 300-400 dollars. Let me know if you have any other questions Peyton
if you are tapping into a sealed system, then you use the larger of the two copper lines coming out of the side of the compressor (this is the low pressure line, the compressor pulls from this side).
clean off the copper tubing with some fine sandpaper before installing your tap.
it is very easy to over fill a system with freon, so i would recommend pulling down the system to -30 psi and holding for at least 20 minutes. then add a known amount of freon to the system.
let it run for a while, it will take a little time to get the temperatures down.
not necessarily, is it maintaining temp? all food staying frozen? especially ice creams if stored in there. most newer freezers displace the heat generated while cooling the food through copper lines running through sides of unit, helps to cut down on air temp differences between the inside (0 degrees) and outside temp to prevent moisture and possible condensation causing premature rusting of unit
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