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This is a down flow unit. There is no pressure valve on this unit. Here is all the parts on this unit.
1. Manual - reset, when used.
2. Blower and blower motor
3. Relief box also known as a exhaust flue.
4. Gas valve control knob or electric switch, ON/OFF
5. Gas Valve
6. Gas burner
7. Ratting plate
8. Blower door safety switch
9. Blocked vent safeguard tube and switch
10. Gas Manifold
11. Manual limit switch (2)
12.Hot surface ignitor
13. Flame sensor
14. Inducer blower motor
15. Control board with relays and transformer.
That is all the parts. The first thing the heater gets a call from the thermostat to the control board marked W. The board sends 24v to the inducer fan relay which makes and causes the inducer fan to come on now there is a small tube that runs from the inducer fan box to a switch when the switch makes it sends power to the board which proves you have cleared the exhaust flue then the flat surface ignitor starts to glow and then gas valve opens and fires. now if this tube is stopped up the heater will not fire and will lock the unit out. Also if the flue is stopped up with trash it will do the same thing. If you are not familiar with gas heating units you should call a service company out and check out the system there is a lot of things that need to be checked out every heating season as to keep you and your family safe.
Most dometic refrigerator have a button you need to push when you shift the mode switch to gas. This button holds the gas valve open until the thermopile generates enough power to hold the valve open. So on most shift the mode switch to gas, hold the button until the flashing light goes out. The flashing light indicates the gas valve is energized and the unit has shifted to gas mode. Depending on when the unit was last used it may take up to 5 minutes for the gas supply to purge the gas lines to the refrigerator. So be patient.
Hope this helps.
never heard of having a pilot light as well an ignitor, the two don't go together. If your have a pilot light that is on the unit is getting gas. If there is pilot light there is usually a knob to switch between pilot light, off, and active on. maybe set to pilot light only.
Hi, The lock switch will need to be replaced. Lock switch, the switch has failed and causes the buzzer to run. Not a difficult repair but the top will need to be remover to fix this. This is not advisable to repair if your not knowledgeable with the installation part of this unit. Good Luck
The high limit switch has nothing to do with the pilot light, but will shut down the main burners. It the pilot light will not stay lit, then it is most likely the thermocouple. If the pilot light will not light at all, then gas is not reaching the pilot. Most likely, the pilot light tube is clogged with grease. When you push on the button to light the pilot, you are overriding all safeties inside the unit and sending gas to the pilot. Also make sure that the unit itself is getting gas. New regulations require a shut off within the hose that feeds the appliance which will shut off due to a surge of gas through the hose. To reset it, disconnect/reconnect the hose at the intake end and when you turn the gas back on, turn it on slowly.
Have the same unit but experience no problems. Sounds like a freon leak has left it inert. You can of course switch from auto to gas and eliminate the auto switch over as part of the problem. You can see the gas flame in the outside access hatch, (or maybe hear it) to be sure it is getting gas. since it doesn't respond in auto, which would also work in electric mode, I think it is the freon problem.
There is an internal pressure switch for this unit that must sense water pressure before the gas valve solenoid is energized so that burner will light. If the air line to the pressure switch is leaking or has failed or is blocked it will not light at all. Additionally if you have had mice or smaller rats get into the unit, check the wiring to the pressure switch for any signs of damage. They can cause havoc! (Personal experience)
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