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Amana Dryer ALE643RBW, How to disassemble to check for worn belt?

Drum turns intermittently at startup, but squeals and stops after a few minutes. I want to check if the belt is worn or if something is obstructing the drum. Can't figure out how to open the front/or lower front panel. Any diagrams out there? Thanks!

Sue

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have an Amana ALE643RBW drum needs manual assistance to tumble

If you remove the back panel you will be able see the drum rollers. There's a good chance they may be worn out. As long as you are replacing the rollers I would suggest replacing the belt at the same time.
Typically when the rollers wear out, the drum drops ever so slightly and the drum wears on the front and rear drum to cabinet seals.The added drag can cause a slow drum and squealing noises.
Good luck, let me know if there is anything further you need.
Regards,

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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omaharox
  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: amana dryer not advancing on auto

Make sure the vent from the dryer to the outside is clean.
Reduced air flow can cause your symptom.

You can remove the vent hose from the dryer and operate the dryer in the automatic cycle.'
If the timer advances you know the vent needs cleaning.
Clean the lint filter housing also.
A flashlight helps to see all the way down the housing.

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Amana dryer Ale643RBW How do

If you hear a loud bang while your dryer is working, and you notice that the
drum has stopped turning, chances are the drivebelt has snapped.
Fortunately, replacing the belt is a fairly straightforward operation that
can be handled with a few simple tools.
First, unplug the dryer. Lift the lint-screen cover and pull out the lint screen
If your dryer has a lint screen on the inside of the door, skip this step.
Then remove the two screws that are under the cover. To unlatch the dryer top,
insert a thin-blade putty knife between the top and front panel,
about 2 1/2 in. in from one corner. Push in on the knife to release the locking
clip, lift the corner, then release the clip on the other side. Swing the top
up and lean it against the wall.
Next, move to the lower toe panel. Slip the putty knife between the lower panel
and the door panel at one side and twist the knife to release the clip
Then release the opposite clip and lift the panel up and off the hinge springs.
To support the dryer drum while the belt is being replaced, place scrap wood
under the front of the drum.
Loosen the two screws at each side of the bottom of the front panel.
Move to the top of the panel and remove the screws from the inside of the
cabinet that hold the front panel to the sides.
Slide the old belt off the drum.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installing the belt
Lean the front panel out slightly and allow the drum to rest on the scrap wood
support. Drop the new dryer belt between the front panel and the drum, and
loop it over the drum. Then, lift the drum slightly while pushing the front
panel back into position.
Replace the screws at the top inside of the front panel, tighten the lower panel
screws and remove the scrap wood from under the drum. Check to make sure that
the rear drum seal fits properly over the lip on the rear bulkhead.
Position the new belt where the old belt was, with the grooved side of the belt
facing down.
Now, move to the motor area and pull out the old belt. To route the new belt
around the idler and drive pulley, first pass the entire belt, doubled up,
under the idler pulley. Then, push the idler belt toward the motor, slip the
belt around the motor pulley and release the tension on the idler pulley.
Open the dryer door and rotate the drum counterclockwise a few times to make
sure the belt is tracking properly. Lower the top and press down at each
corner to engage the clips. Lift the lint-screen cover, replace the two screws
and reinstall the lint screen. Finally, secure the lower front panel and turn
on the dryer for a test.
(http://www.applianceaid.com/images/belt-config.JPG)...Belt routing diagram.

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Posted on Dec 19, 2010

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: amana electric dryer ALE643RBW drum

it could be the rear drum bearing(if equipped),the rollers that support the drum have dried up and won't turn,bad drum glides(if equipped) or the motors bearings could be tightening up from lack of oil in the bearings,you need to remove the top and front covers to inspect for all these issues

Posted on Jan 17, 2011

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I have a 14 yr old AEG 3200 dryer. The drum has stopped turning.Could this just need a simple belt replacement or wld you recommed a new dryer. Thanks


If you can hear the motor run when activated replace the belt. You should check or have checked the rollers that the drum is supported by. Check the belt tension-er replace if worn. While the unit is disassembled the rollers are easy to replace.

Vacuum all loose lint out from around the motor while disassembled.

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I am a little puzzled! Normally the difficulty is with startup rather than stopping after starting. Are you sure that the drum actually turns or maybe it just sounds like it is turning? If it never actually turns then it is probably the belt or the motor. You can make sure by placing only a few items in the dryer (try a couple towels or different colors) place the towels inside, (pay attention to where they are) begin the cycle, open the door to see if the towels have changed position. If the drum has been rotating then try adding a few more items to see if things change.
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Either the drum is rubbing against something or more likely the belt pulley is cause the noise. Oil the pulley wheel and the drum rollers and it should stop squealing.

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I have an Amana (M# ALE643RBW), when started the dryer squeaks for the first 10 minutes of the cycle, then slows to a squeak every 7 minutes... why? Maybe a bit of lube?


I have the same problem. While I have not fixed it yet, I assume it is a drum roller. Most dryers have two 4 to 5 inch diameter drum rollers which hold up the dryer barrel in the back. These drum rollers are wheels which have rubber on the outside where they touch the drum and a metal hole in their middle. They turn on a metal rod which goes through their middle. As the inside of the wheel turns on the rod, the metal gets eaten away and they squeak. Replacing one or both drum rollers should fix the problem.

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My Maytaag dryer has a loud intermittent squeal. It will often work for 10-15 minutes with a quiet squieak or no noise, then the loud squeak starts up. I can turn the dryer off, but the squeal immidately...


I think the drum drive belt is slipping because it occurs more with a large load. Other possibilities are: A drum support wheel bearing could need lubrication or be replaced. Also some drum support wheels have a rubber coating that wears off causing misalignment and noise. Possibly drum gasket (sometimes felt material) where drum meets rear panel is worn allowing metal-to-metal contact--should be replaced. See the following for info about dryer repair including belt replacement:http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-dryer.htm

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I have an Amana ALE643RBW drum needs manual assistance to tumble


If you remove the back panel you will be able see the drum rollers. There's a good chance they may be worn out. As long as you are replacing the rollers I would suggest replacing the belt at the same time.
Typically when the rollers wear out, the drum drops ever so slightly and the drum wears on the front and rear drum to cabinet seals.The added drag can cause a slow drum and squealing noises.
Good luck, let me know if there is anything further you need.
Regards,

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1 Answer

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it sounds like your drum guides that go around your drum they may be worn now. or your bearing in the back of your drum

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The belt may be worn and squealing because it is slipping.  When it warms up it stops slipping.  It will have to be replaced soon. A worn bearing on a support wheel could also cause intermittent noise.

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these dryers have wheel like drum supports and the bronze bearing inside them will wear out causing noise. once you get the drum out, look at the belt idler pulley also it too has a bearing and either one can cause the noise.
if you can get inside the unit, and the bearings dont look worn/wobbly, then you may be able to just lubricate them and it should work for another year or two. if you can get new rollers and idler that would be best and should only cost about 15-20 bucks each.

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