Question about Hitachi C10RA3 10" Table Saw With Stand: Freud LU82M010 10" X 60T X 5/8" Industrial Crosscut/Rip Saw Blade

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My handle broke off on my hitachi table saw c10ra3 need to replace it . It is for the rip fence to lock in place. most places i look you had to buy the hole assembley i just need a new handle

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  • David Ford
    David Ford May 11, 2010

    I looked at a breakdown and they might be right, BUT before buying this whole assembly try their tech dept at 1-866-775-9429. This would be my last resort before buying the whole thing

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Go to garage sales and try your luck. ive had the same problem with differant brands and had to replace the whole thing. check manufacturers web site or your owners manual and see if its a replacable part with a part#

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • dan Apr 22, 2009

    go to garage sales and try your luck. ive had the same problem with differant brands and had to replace the whole thing. check manufacturers web site or your owners manual and see if its a replacable part with a part#

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This is the fundamental problem with rip fences on table saws. I don't know what kind of rip fence you have, but most rip fences are adjustable for squareness. However, unless you have a very nice (and expensive) rip fence, they often don't self-align when you move them anyway. If you have the type that clamps at the front and the back of the table, the problem can be overcome by making sure the rip fence is straight before you clamp it in place. The easiest way I have found to do that is to use an adjustable square. Put the front of the rip fence where you want it, then set the adjustable square so that it matches the distance from the miter slot in the table to the fence. Then move the square to the back of the table and move the back of the fence to meet the end of the square. Now clamp it in place and check the front and the back one more time. It's tedious to do this every time you adjust the fence, but you can get a perfectly aligned fence this way. This method assumes that your blade is parallel to your miter slots, which is adjustable too, but you have to get underneath the saw to do that. good luck, Al K

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Go here
http://www.hitachipowertools.ca/en/Products?cat=10&pid=233&new=50
go to the bootm left of page and click on manual in pdf format. You can right click on it to download or left cleck to view it and print it.

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1 Answer

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Without knowing the full problem, (theheader is cut off) I would ask are you using the fence to help you rip? and when does the board jamb? If it jambs toward the back of the saw the guide might not be square with the blade. I would unplug it and put something that you know is square on the front edge of the blade away from the teeth and adjust the fence so that it is just snub then lock down the table and move the square to the back of saw, it should move with no resistance. If it does then the fence is out. What you would need to do if this is the case is align the fence to the blade, on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that you need to loosen put your square at the front again and lock down the handle with that done move the square to the back and tap the rail on the back side to move tighter or looser and then lock down the bolts. What I do is move the fence away and then back and start all over again to make sure nothing shifted. It sounds more involved than it is. Let me know if this cures your problem

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1 Answer

Fence will not lock in place


You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!

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