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GE XL44 Oven and Broiler stopped functioning

Using key pad I can select either bake or broil, and can set the temperature or Hi/low for broil. But when bake or broil button is pushed again to set the mode of operation ( start the operation) little happens. The indicator light for bake or broil does not stop blinking. After approx 1.5 second a faint click is heard behind the control pad. For the oven there is no glowing of the ignitor (?), no gas smell, and no flame/heat.
In the broil mode, the ignitor lights (glows) and low level flames appear
along the lentgth of the broiler element, but full broil status is never achieved. This is for GE XL44, Model # : JGBP35GEP4WG.

Your help is appreciated.

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6 Suggested Answers

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: GE JGRP17 Gas Oven

Rosanne, he problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN OR TURN IT OFF AT THE BREAKER!

To replace it... Remove the racks and look up at the broiler manifold. You'll see the igniter mounted at the rear (the round thing with 2 wires going to it). You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter, tuck any loose wires as far back into the oven as possible and replace the racks.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

Posted on Oct 11, 2007

SOURCE: F2 error code

Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)

Posted on Dec 26, 2007

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: GE XL44 oven not working, but the broiler is...???

CHECK THE IGNITOR, IT SHOULD BE GLOWING ORANGE BEFORE GAS IGNITES. IF NO GLOW, REPLACE IGNITOR.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: Oven and broiler will not come on.

go to www.repairclinic.com enter model number and look for the igniter it seems to me you need to change this part. Note it is very fragile.

Posted on May 02, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: FGF374 - Broiler and Bake does not stay on

The flame sensor has to prove the flame to stay lit. When it fails, the valve closes.

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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First start up


You're actually referring to the "broiler" elements. Most electric ovens have these at the top of the main oven space. (Some gas ovens are set up the same way, but many put the broiler elements in a bottom drawer.)

As their name implies, broiler elements are active only when you're broiling. They will not go on for baking.

Broiling is the process of cooking food by exposing it directly to a high heat source at close range. To broil a steak, for example, you would place the pan holding the steak on an oven rack raised to the top or next to top position in the oven (consult the manual) and set the oven to broil. The top elements will then turn on and cook the meat by direct radiation.

Most people, however, use ovens for baking far more often than for broiling. Baking is the process of cooking food (cakes, casseroles, roasts etc) by indirect heat. In other words you raise the oven to a certain temperature, put the food on a rack more in the middle of the oven, and let the surrounding heat cook it over time. When you bake the top broiler elements usually don't come on at all.

I hope this helps.

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sounds like your probe connection may be shorted. Can you inspect the probe itself, and perhaps do a test for continuity with an ohm meter? Also, you might be able to disable the probe in the menu settings, and run it on manual, just for a test.

Do you still have the user's manual for this unit?

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Hi, the F2 error code means that the oven is overheating for an unknown reason. F3 and F4 indicate a problem with the oven sensor, which usually requires replacing the sensor.

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Hi.


If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.


If the part that is not heating is only one element, then you may need to replace the element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.
In this case, selecting only baking or only broiling (depending on what element is faulty), the oven will work normally.

If the oven is a gas oven, then you have no element. In that case if the oven burners are working, replace the temperature sensor.

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Neither the oven or broil element comes on. No error code appears, any thoughts?


Hi.

If both broiling and baking element are not heating, then the most common fault causing the problem is a defective temperature probe.

The probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electroning oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

Regards.


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The baking element in the oven does not appear to be working


HI.I would test to confirm the actual issue. This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.


Use This procedure below to confirm the failure.

With a multimeter, use these steps below to physically test for element functions.

1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.

2.Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.

3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.

4.Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.

5.Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.

6.Disconnect the wires from the element.

7.Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.

8.If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and re-secure the element.

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If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.
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    Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

    If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

It won't broil Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

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Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)

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