Need replacement power cord, might be part HCJ SU-7P.
Hello, I'm looking for a replacement electrical power cord (marked part # HCJ SU-7P) that goes with a portable Sony Cassette/CD/Radio player model number CFD-8/2. The original power cord is rated 125 Volts AC at 7 amps, and has a very specific shaped molded end that plugs into the portable player. Can you locate one of these?
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I could not locate the exact replacement power cord for your toaster oven. If the power cord is a plug -in type, you can look on line, do a search " small appliance power cords", but I'm not sure if you will be able to match up the correct cord. I think your best bet is to go to a local. old fashioned. hardware store or to a small appliance repair center. Take the original power cord with you to match it up.
There should be a cover where the cable goes into. Look at your old dryer - notice where the red, black, white and green cables go to - they should be marked. Compare those to your new dryer. With the power cord unplugged from the wall, remove the cord from the old dryer and install on the new one. The cord should have terminals already installed - you will need a socket to remove the nut holdng the terminals down.
If the power cord is really old and the insulation cracks when you bend the cord, replace the cord.
if you buy a color coded cord and plug then red and black go on thee 2 outer terminals of the power terminal and the white wire goes between these as this is the neutral connection and if it has a green ground wire connect this anywhere to the metal case of the unit, if its a gray cord with no colors then the 2 outer wire on the cord go to the outer terminals on the units power terminal block and the center wire on this cord goes to the center terminal on the unit
& blinks is sc or,sd or ,su board or all 3. Disconnect the ac cord. remove the back cover. on the left are 2 thin boards with flat cables that connect to the panel. these 2 boards are the SD and SU boards. They are connected to a board to the right. This the SC board or Y sustain board. Disconnect the 2 wie plug that connects this SC board to the power board in the middle. Examine the sqauare ics on the SC and SU boards on the rt side. Look for a pit or burn mark on one of the ics. If you see one then this board is bad. Disconnect this board from the SC board remove connectors on the rt and also remove the all the screws on this board. It should now be hanging free only by the flat cables on the rt. reconnect the 2 wire cable from the SC board to the power board. Plug in the set and power on. If set turns on the that board needs replaced. You will see 1/2 of picture. If still won,t turn on then disconnect the ac cord and the 2 wire conn from power board to SC board. disconnect the other board on the left letting it hang free. re connect SC to power board,plug ac cord in and turn on. If set now will turn on then Replace that board. If stiil won/t turn replace the SC board.
You are correct, it sounds like an electrical short happened. I am guessing when it was hit, it caused the cord to get pinched in the metal casing. The pinching must have broken the insulation on the cord and the casing is grounded...therefore, instant short. The unit probably wasn't hurt but will need to have a new cord. If you follow the now unplugged cord to the refrigerators electrical connection, it is probably either held on by crimped connectors. Cut those connectors off as close to the connectors as you can (on the opposite side of the power cord). Follow the path of the old cord and remove it from the unit. A new cord can be obtained from a local appliance store or ordered online from places like applianceparts.com. Put the new cord back in the same path the old cord was removed from. Make sure there is no sharp metal to puncture the new cord where the old cord was pinched.
Hope this helps
If you are handy or someone in the house is handy you may even be able to do this yourself.
All that is required is to remove the one screw out of the handle there near where the cord goes into the machine. Cut the cord off the unit about 2 inches from the handle. Open up the handle and follow where the cord goes to, and disconnect the cord from the switch. Both the white and the black will go to the switch. Feed the cut cord through the handle. Bare off about 1 and 1/2 inches of the cord you just cut, bare off the black and white and replace onto the switch. Reassemble everything and you should be ready to rock and roll again.
CIRCUIT CARD- -Photocell blue wired go to two terminals marked BLUE PHOTOCELL (any order) -Motor red wire plugs onto terminal marked MTR MAIN, motor white wire plugs into terminal marked WHITE MOTOR. -potentiometer (thing with knob) two white wires plug into terminals marked TEMP SEL -Black wire from switch to terminal marked L1 BLACK -White wire from power cord goes to terminal marked N White -Ignitor (used to be yellow wires) goto terminals marked IGNITOR and IGNITOR RET (any order)
OTHER- -White wire from power cord goes to switch terminal marked 3A , other pigtail of the white wire goes to board as described above. -Black wire from power cord goes to swtich terminal marked 4B
The clicking is a sure sign of a bad power supply. Go to our web site and check out the pictures of what blown capacitors look like, www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm Now open the back of your monitor again and look at the power supply board. Check the capacitors, the tops should be flat if hey have any bulging at all then they will need to be replaced. If any are damaged then replace them all because the rest will soon pop too. Be sure to use high temp replacements that will be marked 105c. Do not use caps from Radio Shack they are only rated for general purpose not high frequency use. You can order the correct ones from several places on the internet or we can supply them for you. The values you will need to get are going to be marked on the sides of the ones coming out but will be like 220uf, 470uf 1000uf etc. and have a voltage rating. When you insert the new caps in the board be sure to have the polarity stripe going the same direction as the old one goes. If you have any more questions just let me know.
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First, the power cord connects to the Power Unit not the Motherboard, so if jiggling the wire causes the fault, it is either the Power Supply Unit or just the plug and wiring that the power cord plugs into.
If you must open the casing, try replacing the Power Unit, but the best solution is to get a computer repair person to look at it.
If you pull the unit apart and start poking around in there, you will almost certainly blow something up with static electricity (and then maybe your Motherboard will need replacing!). Note The voltage of Static Electricity (which you probably can't feel) is THOUSANDS of times higher than the Voltage that your computer components runs on. For comparison connect up a Mains Supply to a 12 volt globe and see what happens (and this is only 10-20 time higher than the required voltage.