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Re: Says in wash all through the cycle, pauses during...
Yes it is drum seal problem.due to which the cycle is not going in to rinse cycle.just replace the drm seal and it will be as good as new.you can get the required part at
I suggest you to get it done by the technician as its not very easy job to do it manually.if not familiar with drum seal fitting.
this will help.
please do accept the solution.
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This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model FRONT LOADING washing machines.If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here’s the information you need to check the drain pump: Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.
Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel.HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws.Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off.If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
Locate the drain pump.It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap.BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water.If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac.This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines.If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle.Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water.Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained.Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris.Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it.Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover.Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button).“C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills.The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping.Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times.The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.
NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket.This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.
It sounds like your Door Switch assembly may be faulty. During the cycles, the machine thinks the door is open, so it pauses the cycle.
Can you hear the machine drain? If not, this could be a Drain Pump problem, or Drain filter problem. You will need to remove the panel to access the Drain pump at the bottom of the machine. Remove the Drain pump hoses and clear them out. Make sure your Drain pump is also clear and turns freely.
Does the machine's drum spin? If not, you may have a Motor or Motor control board problem.
This is exactly what my machine was doing, as well. I fixed it by cleaning out the filter in front of the water pump.
Searching here, I found that you can remove the lower front panel (three screws along the bottom edge is all it takes) to get to the filter. With the panel removed, you'll see a round white plastic cover (about 3-4 inches diameter) that screws out. Get a bucket under the cover to catch the water that's in it (could be 2 quarts or more) and unscrew the cover.
The cover pulls out, revealing that is actually a screw-in plastic strainer. I found tons of coins, broken pens, paper clips, etc. in mine when I did this. A lot will be deep inside the black rubber hose that connects this filter housing to the washer drum. You can rake the stuff out with a bent wire clothes hanger. Shaking the black hose will help hurry the junk along and out of your machine. Screw the cover back on after the clean out and your machine should go back to normal.
Thinking about it, front loaders will have lots of small items flushed into the pump compared to top loaders. Coins you alway found in the bottom of the drum in a top loader, they all wind up in the filter of a front loader. And once it slow the drainage to a crawl the machine will shut down multiple times when it can't drain the water out completely, and it will never step up to it's max spin speed with all that water still in the drum.
Surely your pump is clogged, which you should dismantle to check or replace.
A very important thing for all front loaders, all pockets should be checked before dumping in machine, small items should be placed in pillow case or special plastfc bag - so they don't slip into inner drum by accident, and clog pipes, etc.
I am having the same problem w/ our brand new front loader washer, it pauses constantly, and even when I can get the load to finish, I have to drain and spin atleast 3 x before I can even attempt to put in dryer, at this point it is taking me hours to do one load of laundry!!
Ugh-- Service man is coming tomorrow, so I will share what I learn...
You may have to remove the lower panel and clean the drain pump filter. Easy job, once the panel is removed the filter will be right in front. Get a bucket and unscrew the filter cover (3 very small screws at the bottom of the front panel) and you should find a ton of lint and stuff in there. This model has a pressure switch that detects if there is water in the tub. If so it will do this pause and slow spin. Once the pump filter is clean you should be good again. It worked for me.
code Description of fault User
E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2
E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3
E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4
E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying
condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5
E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.6
E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure
switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7
Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic)
pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure
--- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.8
E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure
switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.9
E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door
closed and water drain 8.10
E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.11
E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.11
E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12
E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14
E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16
E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18
E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19
E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.19
E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20
E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22
E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.23
E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23
E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24
E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25
E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26
E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27
E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28
E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29
E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30
E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31
E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle
(door open) 8.32
E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle
(door open) 8.33
E91 Communications error between main PCB and user
interface --- --- 8.34
E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34
E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34
EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35
EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35
Regards David Marsh