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Re: adjusting water flow
If you are using a mixing valve it is pre set so as to not burn your self but if you wish to set it on the dial depending on which one you have, some are flat tip screw driver some have plastic cap on it turn on the water and set to your desired temp by turning clock wise or counter clock wise
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It *may* not be a problem with the water heater itself necessarily. When you say "keep adjusting the water temperature when you're taking a shower" I presume you're talking about turning the shower hot/cold knob(s) and not the temp thermostat on the water heater itself.
If so, when it starts to run colder, turn the knob all the way to full hot. Is the water then very hot? If so, the water heater is working fine & doing its job, and the problem is likely to be in the shower faucet mixing valve itself. Sometimes a faulty one will expand the inner seals/cartridge as hot water flows thru it, and starts to (wrongly) restrict the hot water flow, thus causing the constant need to "turn the dial up a notch".
Ok i intall tankless water heaters and sell them and repair them . The trouble your are hving is more than likely ,the mixing valve on your shower has a ajustment on it to prevent you from burning your self . that is the number one reason in showers when water never get to temp . What it is doing is addng cold water to your shower for you bummer . Take handle off and adjust water temp to your hottest setting . Some times you have to remove the low flow washer in shower head to get the right flow . also every time you start up your hot water it shouldbe set all the way ot other wise withe the battery 2 D models the unit will not sence flow and shut off the unit ,with some units it is a fine balancing act to get them adjusted right. If your buying a tankless water heater always buy a blower type unit that has a computer that runs it . You will be happy . If the Battery operated unit is for a cottage or a smallcabin then your just going to have to fix the pumbing to make it work right many of the safety features of the newer showers are not made to work well with tankless water heaters .
What is happening is that your cold water flow is greater in volume (gals per min) than your hot water. So when you open the cold water it is mixing with the hot water inside the faucett or shower plumbing and actually reverse flowing back into the hot water heater plumbing. The reverse flow slows the water flow sensing turbine inside the heater and it is thinking that there is not any water flow. (There isn't actually due to the equalization of water pressure when you open the cold water faucett) Since this is a safety feature of the tankless heater to keep it from overheating, it shuts off.
Somewhere in the hot water plumbing there is a major restriction. It may very well be the internal plumbing of the tankless hot water heater or the flow detector design.
There are 2 ways to correct this. The easy way would be to restrict the available cold water flow. You can do this by installing another shut off valve inline with the cold water plumbing and just not open the valve all the way. You would have to adjust the setting so that the hot and cold water can be on at the same time and the hot water heater stays on. The hard way is to locate the hot water flow restriction and eliminate it.
It is possible.... if you have a flow restrictor in a shower head or a screen in a faucett areator that they are partially clogged. Clean any flow restrictors and screens then see how the hot water heater performs before you start modifying plumbing.
Try flowing more hot water with your shower. During the summer you end up mixing alot of cold water and very little hot water (because your cold ground water isn't so cold in the summer). When you get close the minimum flow rate of the appliance, it will start to short cycle (fire on and off). Here's some recommended things you can do:
1) Clean the shower head - remove scale deposits and or clogging 2) Widden flow restrictor - most shower heads have a flow restrictor on the back of the showerhead; It consists of a rubber washer with a hole in the center. You can widen the hole using a drill bit. 3) remove the flow restrictor - this should be a last resort
If you aren't getting any error codes, then the heater is probably doing its job. Your problem is probably somewhere in your plumbing system. The most common reason you get this sort of problem is due to cold water mixing in the hot water system. There are a number of causes for a "cross connection" :
-Faulty check valve -Missing check valve on reciculation return line -Faulty shower cartridge -Thermostatic mixing valve set too low -Faulty thermostatic mixing valve -Faulty anti-scald valve
The easiest way to confirm a cross connection is to: 1) shutoff the cold water entering the tankless heater 2) open hot water valves around the house. If you still have water flowing at your hot water fixtures, then you have a cross connection.
Problem new or old? How long you have unit? Sounds like not enough flow to keep burner on. Tankless need at least .6 gpm to keep hot water flowing or else the burner fires then shuts fires then shuts and you get a sandwich effect...hot cold hot cold. If you have new diverter valve in shower -vs- old two handle type try turning hot water ALL the way ON and see if hot stays hot. If it does stay hot then slowly adjust to cool and see if you maintain a good MIX for proper temp. If it goes cold again try this......LOWER control pad setting to a comfortable 105 degrees (ladies) 100 degrees(men) and turn shower valve all the way to HOT. See if your temp remains consistant now and if it does then problem solved. Tankless mindset...set temp on control pad and stop trying to MIX at shower valve. Thats how these things work. Thats why I install a control pad in each bath and one in the kitchen for adjusting ash temp during dishwasher on time. ditto for wash machine. You should never need to turn on cold water if your unit is set to proper temp at controller. Hope this helps
Sounds like you have a problem with water flow. Since your ground water
is warmer in the summer, you mix less hot and more cold in order to get
the same warm temperature. If your hot water flow gets low enough, your
tankless will start to "short cycle" in order to prevent scalding. Use
one of these three methods to increase your water flow at the shower:
1) Clean your shower head and descale 2) Widen the hole in the showerhead's flow restrictor 3) Remove your flow restrictor entirely
Not sure but check the inlet water at the heater, the filter may be clog up a little that restrict the flow. Did u use the heater at all during the winter? If not, the heat exchanger may be clogged with built up in there. U need to descale it. Good luck. Chinhcu
It might be a question of inadequate flow. All tankless water heaters have a minimum flow rate that must be met, typically .5-.9 gpm, before the heater will operate. In the summer time the incoming ground water temperature is higher, causing you to mix more cold water and less hot water to get a lukewarm temperature. This can reduce your flow rate near or below the minimum flow rate. Here's a test for you, try running running a sink while taking your next shower. If the hot water remains mostly constant throughout, then your problem is with flow at the showerhead. The flow at a shower head can be reduced by buildup of scale and sediment. Also all showerheads have a flow restrictor that limits flow to 2.5gpm (some even less). Removing the restrictor will increase the showerhead flow rate as well. Also look for any error code displayed on the digital read out of the heater. Some heaters will flash on their burner indicate light as well.
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?