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How do you remove the drum-sprocket assembly on a McCulloch chain saw. Do you have to put a wrench on the opposite end of the shaft?

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One of our group of experts suggested stuffing knotted, thin rope into the spark plug hole so that the piston could not rise all the way. The other way is to use an impact wrench (left-hand threads) to turn in direction of chain motion.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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Mcculloch MS 1415 electric chain saw throws chains


I had a saw that did that and found my blade the chain runs in was bent. Another problem was the groove the chain goes in had a gouge that did not look like much but was just enough to throw the chain. Also check the drive sprocket and make sure it lines up with the groove in the blade the chain runs in.I replaced the blade and its ok now.

Sep 15, 2015 | McCulloch Ms1415, 14" Chainsaw Chain 49dl...

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Drive Hub, Spring Pulley & Chain Replacement for Steppers


Video about the Drive Hub Replacement Procedure for Stairmaster Steppers

  • This videocovers replacing the spring pulley, the step chain and the drive hub assembly on the Stairmaster steppers
  • Tools needed:
    • Snap Ring Pliers
    • Tip Kit for Snap Ring Pliers
    • Socket Wrench
    • 7/16" Socket
    • 7/16" Wrench
    • Needle Nose or Standard Pliers
    • Safety Goggles
  • Begin by disconnecting the spring
  • Do this by pulling up on the spring and unhooking the spring from the frame post
  • Next, using the snap ring pliers and proper tips, remove the snap ring from the spring pulley shaft
    **Important: Be sure to wear safety goggles when working with snap rings**
  • Remove and inspect the spring pulley for any flat spots replacing the pulley if necessary
    • Flat spots develop over time and can result in roughness in the pedals
  • On the side that the pulley was just removed, slowly press the pedal down
  • Remove the step chain retainer brackets (if equipped) using the 7/16" wrench, 7/16" socket and socket wrench
  • Once the retainer bracket is removed, the spring can be lifted up over the drive sprocket and disconnected from the chain
    • The spring is opened at one end to allow for maneuvering over the link
  • Using the standard or needle nose pliers, remove the master link attaching the step chain to the pedal arm
    • Place one jaw of the pliers against the open end of the clip (if installed correctly, the open end of the clip is opposite the direction of chain travel) and the other jaw of the pliers against the far side of the nearest rivet coming through the keeper link; and squeeze pliers together
    • This should pop the clip free allowing you to remove it from the master link
    • Next remove the link bar
    • Finally remove the master link disconnecting the chain from the pedal arm
  • Inspect the new step chain making sure all the chain links flex
    • Manufacturer recommends lubricating the step chain with 30W motor oil using a clean rag to remove any excess
  • Attach the new step chain to the pedal arm reversing the steps taken to disconnect the chain
  • Relieve tension on the opposite spring by lifting up on the spring and unhooking it from the frame post
  • Slowly press the pedal down
  • Feed the spring around the pulley and lift the chain up over the sprocket to move it out of the way
  • Disconnect the remaining two bolts from the drive hub assembly
  • Lift the drive chain over the sprocket and pull the drive hub from the frame
    • As the drive hub assembly starts to develop problems, you may feel clicking, hear some grinding sounds, or a pedal may stick in one position (which usually happens on one side); All of which are indicators of a worn drive hub assembly
    • The drive hub can be replaced as a complete unit
      • The drive hub consists of (3) sprockets
        • Two one way clutch sprockets that drive in one direction and slip in the opposite direction which are for the step chains
        • A larger sprocket that spins either direction and is for the drive chain
    • An inspection of the drive hub can help determine need for replacement
          • If either of the one way clutch sprockets slip in both directions, they need replaced
          • If there is a catch in any of the sprockets in any position, then it likely needs replaced
  • Reinstall the drive hub the same way it was removed
  • Slip the drive chain over the drive sprocket before mounting the hub assembly to the frame
    • The drive hub assembly on the SC916 stepper only has 4 bolt positions. The drive hub assembly on the 4400 and 4600 steppers has bolt holes all around the hub allowing the hub to be rotated for chain tension adjustment. The SC916 stepper has a preset tension and the adjustment is no longer necessary
  • Once the drive hub is bolted to the frame, reinstall the step chains on each side
  • Place the free end of the step chain (opposite the pedal arm connection) up over the step chain sprocket
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull down on the step chain
  • Place a hand on the sprocket keeping the step chain from feeding back and allowing the pedal to drop
  • Grab the spring with your opposite hand and join the spring to the step chain
  • Once the spring is attached to the chain, press the pedal down again
  • Reinstall the spring pulley and the snap ring onto the pulley shaft
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull the spring to route through the pulley, hooking the spring onto its frame post
  • Repeat these steps to attach the step chain and spring on the opposite side
  • Reinstall the step chain brackets (if equipped) making sure all bolts face the same direction
  • This concludes the video demonstration of replacing the drive hub, spring pulley and chains on the Stairmaster steppers

Spring Pulley Chain Drive Hub Replacement Video for Stairmaster Stepper...

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster Exercise & Fitness

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Drive Hub Assembly Replacement for Stairmaster 4000PT Stepper


Stairmaster Stepper Drive Hub Assembly Replacement
  1. Remove the side covers.
  2. Remove the step chain retainers.
  3. Supposrt the pedal arm. Unhook the pedal arm return spring from the spring hanger. Lift the step chain up and off the clutch sprocket and lower the pedal arm to the floor. Repeat on the other side.
  4. Remove the snap ring from the left end of the drive shaft. WARNING: To reduce the risk of eye injury, wear eye protection when removing snap rings.
  5. Remove the drive chain.
  6. Remove the sprocket and other small parts from the left side of the hub assembly.
  7. Slide the drive shaft to the right, out of the hub assembly. If you remove the right-hand clutch sprocket form the drive shaft, do not confuse it with the left-hand clutch sprocket.
  8. Loosen and remove the two remaining bolts and nuts that hold the hub assembly to the frame. Remove the hub assembly.
  9. Inspect the drive shaft, bushings, thrust washers, and clutch sprockets for excessive wear or pitting. Replace any worn components.
  10. To reinstall the hub assembly, carefull reverse the disassembly procedures. Be sure that the right- and left-hand clutch sprockets are positioned correctly; the wide shoulder of the sprocket should be facing away from the hub on both sides.
  11. Chain Tension. The drive shaft is mounted in an eccentric hub. Rotate the hub so the marked hole is in the 12 o'clock posistion, lining up four holes in th hub with the four holes in the frame. Use this hub position when reinstalling the drive chain since the distance between the drive and the transmission shafts is at a minimum. The hub is in the proper position when the drive chain has a total of 1" to 1-1/2" of play, up and down, at the slackest point in the chain. If it is necessary to increase the tension or tighten the chain, rotate the hub counter clockwise until the chain has proper tension.
  12. Reinstall the covers.

How to Repalce the Drive Hub Assembly on Stairmaster 4000PT

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster 4000PT Stepper

1 Answer

I have just bought a brand new Mac cs 400t and upon assembly the chain won't move freely once the chain tightening outer nut and bar nob are in place. I've started the motor but when I give it some...


With the cove off you should be able to turn the sprocket easily, if not the brake is on, grab the hand guard and pull it fully back toward the rear of the saw until the brake clicks and the drum can be turned.

Sep 18, 2013 | McCulloch Garden

1 Answer

Craftsman chain saw repair manual


Its not hard! You need to purchase a tool that goes into your spark plug hole. You remove the spark plug, put this tool in the hole. This tool stops the piston from moving so you can remove the nut holding the clutch. The clutch is what the drive sprocket is attached to. The drive sprocket is where the chain fits on at the engine side. remive the bar and chain and you will see the clutch. Use the tool and then use a wrench that fits the nut on the clutch. be sure you know which way removes the nut. It could be opposite of what you think. some are left hand threads some are not. I think these are not. After you replace the clutch be sure to lube the clutch bearings. Most people don't know this! use a grease gun made for saws and insert it into the hole at the end of the shaft that holds the clutch. Also next time your saw cant saw through a piece of wood, do not give it gas to make the chain try and move.This is what burns up the clutch! If your saw stalls out, and you press the throttle and it still doesn't turn. Always allow the chain to move, pull back and lift up on the saw slightly to get the chain moving again.

Jul 09, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

Motor runs, but chain does not move


check to see if the chain is on the sprocket to do this you will probably have to remove the side cover on the saw if chain is on sprocket and still will not move then you may have a sheared key in the key way if this saw has one, if it does you should be able to see the key way on the end of the shaft coming out of the motor. there should be a nut that holds the sprocket in place if that nut is loose and the shaft is splined instead of having a key way the the sprocket could slip while the motor is turning.

Feb 25, 2011 | Remington Electric Chain Saw

1 Answer

How do I assemble the bar and chain on my 1.5hp chain saw MS1415?


Start by removing the bar nut/nuts, and remove the side cover, if the chainbrake is in the cover make sure this is off by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle, before removing the side cover, wind the chain adjuster screw fulley in toward the rear of the saw ( it may be in the crankcse, or in the side cover ) now assemble the guide bar onto the bar bolt/bolts, loop the cutter chain over the sprocket,and into around the tip of the guide bar, and into the bar rails, make sure the sharp end of the cutters on the top of the guide bar are facing away from the saw ( the chain rotates clockwise as you look at it ) now align the adjuster hole in the bar with the adjuster pawl on the machine, now re fit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure this lines up with the adjuster hole in the bar, assemble the bar nut/nuts finger tight, adjust the chain so as it touches all the way around the guide bar ( not sagging on the bottom of the bar ) with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is free and sitting in the sprocket correctly, re adjust the chain if required, now lift the nose of the bar and fully tighten the bar nut/nuts

Feb 10, 2011 | McCulloch 14" Electric Chain Saw Mcc1514

1 Answer

I have a mccullock chain saw.mod 600041u&ser#11026320.24'blade.looking for clutch pack


If I am correct it is Pro Mac 610, IPL 11-600041??. M&D Mower has the clutch assembly (Item 7) for $11.49 plus S&H. The drum and sprocket assembly is also available for about $3 additional. I ask you phone them @ 866-914-1252. Please have your saw within easy reach.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.

Lou

Thank You for using FixYa.

Jan 08, 2011 | McCulloch Garden

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

I have a baumr-ag sx62 saw and need to remove the clutch to get to the chain sprocket ,the side panle is all dismantled, will it just pull of the shaft or is there a locking grub srew ? please help malc


The previous suggestion will work but there is an easier way. Remove the cover over the the chain and remove the chain and bar. Turn the motor over and remove the cover from the opposite side to reveal the cooling fan. This fan is held in place by a nut which attaches the fan to the engine crankshaft and is on the opposite end of the crankshaft to the clutch assembly. To stop the crankshaft from turning as you remove the clutch assembly, either put a socket and ratchet on the nut or jam the fan in position using a screwdriver. If you use a screwdriver take care not to break a fin off the fan. Now simply give one of the three legs of the clutch a sharp rap or two with a suitable sized drift and hammer but remember, and I use capitols to emphasise the point, THE CLUTCH HAS A L/H THREAD AND MUST BE TURNED CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE. Once loosened, the clutch should spin off by hand. Whilst you have the clutch and sprocket off, make sure that you check the serviceability of the oil pump drive and the flimsy (stupid) cover plate which distorts and falls to pieces with heat and where I think most of the oil leaks from when the engine is not running. Re-assembly is simply the reverse procedure. Good luck.

Regards, Bob.

Jul 18, 2010 | Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar

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