THE DRYER WAS WORKING AFTER I REPLACING THE CORD.. IT WAS RUNNING REAL GOOD AND HOT FOR 2 LOADS THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IT STOPPED WORKING. WHEN I TURN THE DIAL ON YOU CAN HEAR THE MOTOR NOISE BUT NOTHING HAPPENS WHEN I PUSH THE START DIAL

Check for a good ground, Appliances now days will not run without proper ground because of the electronic boards

You want to do a few things to correct this. First make sure your air flow is good. then replace the cycling thermostat. That stat is mounted on the blower housing right next to the fuse:



I recently worked on a dryer that was doing this exact thing and I replaced the control thermostat.
My friend Larry brought it by because it was overheating and he had already changed the fuse once.
I always see the tough or the strange. LOL. Anyway I took the dryer completely apart and cleaned it up real good. Replaced the fuse and observed the dryer with the back off. I watched the heating element and it just stayed on way too long. Normally you can hear the control clicking and observ the element coming on and off. The cycling thermostat has 4 wires. 2 small wires and 2 large wires. The large wires carry the current to the heater element. The 2 small wires are use to warm up the klixon so that it will shut down even faster for knits and perma press items. So what goes wrong? The bimetal inside the control simply gets fatigued and don't shut down no more. The dryer overheats and the fuse blows.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

YES ALMOST ALWAYS

Replace the fan belt that turns the dryer drum. Use only the genuine replacement spare part for your dryer.

Your heating element is grounded out and needs to be replaced. Pull back panel off (real easy). Good luck...

Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

The following link explains how to troublshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The first step in troubleshooting this problem is to ensure you have the proper voltage at the receptacle. Take a reading across the two hot terminals at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. This is the RED and BLACK wires where the power cord connects. To ensure your safety, please follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer.
2. Remove the coverplate on the terminal block.
3. Connect your meter leads and plug dryer back in.
4. Take your voltage measurement and UNPLUG dryer.

You should get a reading of 220-240VAC. If the voltage is incorrect, you may have a bad power cord, or a breaker tripped. Check the voltage again at the receptacle. If good, and bad at the terminal - you have a bad power cord. If it is still bad, check the service panel for a possible tripped breaker. Some homes have a dual breaker for the dryer. If one breaker trips, the dryer will only be getting 1/2 the required voltage. The dryer drive motor only uses half the input voltage and will still run, but the heating circuits require the FULL service in order to work. This will give you the symptoms of a dryer that runs, but doesn't heat. If the breakers are set, and bad at the receptacle, you may need a certified electrician check the wall receptacle.

If the source voltage is good, you have a problem in the heating circuits. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is clogged or poorly installed vent ducting. This causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. The common failed part is the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). The TCO acts as a fuse and if it trips, it must be replaced.

Please read through the link I provided and make sure you check everything, to be sure. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Hello , Sounds like your motor is over heating , it will run until the sensor shuts it down from getting to hot , it is most likley because the motor is covered in lint and needs cleaned. Hope that helps.

there is a thermal switch it cuts out the heater element when its at temp. also so has a thermal switch that cut out the unit if it gets to hot. there will be two thermal switches or a combined one. it will have 2 to 3 wire on it and is directly connected to the the drum. one of these is the problem the thermal switch is working as its cutting out the unit. to stop a fire.

Need the model no# and the make to find one?