Question about Maytag MER5530 Electric Kitchen Range
Using 2 or more cooking surface or the oven and 1 or more cooking surfaces causes the clock to start blinking and the clock stops running just blinks although the cooking function continues. It resmbles how a digital clock functions as a result of a power failure.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The oven temp sensor has gone bad. F1-2 would be for the lower oven and F1-1 would mean the upper oven. If you give me the model # from the sticker on the oven I can direct you to a diagram, part #, and price. These are very easy to replace. Should be located inside the oven in the upper right or left hand side. It looks like a silver rod about 4-8 inches long and crimped on the end. Most of them can be removed from inside the oven by removing the two screws, pull out the sensor (harness and all) plug in the new sensor, put the screws back in and your done. Some have to be removed from the back of the oven by removing the lower, larger back panel and follow the same process as mentioned above. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 19, 2007
I own the magtag gemini model MER 6770 AAW serial number 14882525YB the message I am getting from the panel is F 1-2 then it beeps until I cancel then sometimes it returns beeping. Sometimes the top oven cooks fine but if I try to cook with both ovens going it goes all crazy with beeps and shuts off and sometimes won't go over 100 degrees in both ovens. I am a very handy person and if someone can tell me how and what to replace I know I could do it. The repair center said it could be $300 plus to repair. My stove is 8 years old and I paid around $1300 for it I can't afford to replace it. HELP if it is out there otherwise I guess I will have to pay to repair it still cheaper then buying a new one...
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
SOURCE: digital readout blinks
Hello , I can help with this issue , When your display fades or flashes it is the first sign of your control board going out. The control powers your digital screen and they are very common to fail. If you have the model with the controls in the back top of unit against the wall it is basic to replace the board yourself , if you have the controls in the front of the unit it is more advanced to get into but is still possible. [controls meaning screen & burner knobs.]
A good place to order is sears parts. be sure to use your model off the oven its self. Please let meknow if you have anymore questions. Phil
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
SOURCE: GE Spectra range
I just moved into a new apartment and my stove wasn't working properly. After reading the very helpful information posted by kd3ke, I decided to turn off the breaker to my stove, take off the back covering, and check out what was back there. I was experiencing the same problem as posted.... the burner light, oven light and clock were all working however, the burners did not get hot nor did the oven. After taking off the back panel, the cord did have just as he stated, a black, white, and red wire however the plug attatching to the stove did not have cordinating colors. It was just a grey cord with 3 copper wire heads. It seemed to me that the cord was twisted and therefore everything was backwards. Since I was relying on his post, that would explain why the stove still did have some power, just not all, because the voltagages were wrong. I flipped the three cord wires, reconnected them to the stove and then plugged it in and turned on the breaker... everything works now!!! :) I don't know if this will help anyone else since it may not be the same problem if your stove was working properly previously, but it fixed the problem for me since I had just moved in.
Posted on May 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 18, 2014 | Magic Chef 9815 Electric Single Oven
Jul 10, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter,
you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also
crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will
not light - you should have an amp probe
to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The
hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open
the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is
just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit
part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of
times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter.
See this service sheet
for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system.
Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat
than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow
marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open
but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When
this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the
point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a
small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the
oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still
be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
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