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On each of the two front corners, insert a large slotted-screwdriver (or a stiff putty knife) in the crack between the top and the cabinet. Pry up -- the top should pop up.
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I DON'T KNOW. I RECENTLY FIXED A SIMILAR WASHER PROBLEM. THE SAFETY PLASTIC POINTER ON LID NO LONGER REACHED THE SAFETY CUT OFF SWITHCH UNDER A HOLE IN THE WASHERS TOP.
I TOOK TOP OFF WASHER, TESTED SWITCH WITH METER. IT WAS OK. I RAISED THE SWITCH WITH A RIBBON OF COATED METAL. WORKS LIKE NEW.
Unplug the dryer and take it outside.
Step 1: Remove the filter
Step 2: Remove 2 screws from filter chute on top of dryer
Step 3: Pull top towards you on each side slightly to raise it
Step 4: Remove 2 screws inside the front panel
Step 5: Unplug the lid switch using small screw driver
Step 6: Raise up the panel 1 inch then remove it
Step 7; Remove the drum
Step 8: clean it up and lube the roller & idler
Step 9: Remove the filter chute and clean it
Step 10: Place the new belt (341241) around the drum with
the ribbed side towards the drum surface making sure it is not twisted.A twisted belt will be ruined quickly.
Step 11: Use belt to help you place the drum back in the dryer.
Step 12: Make sure the rollers are in the groove and the felt is not tucked under.
Step 13: Insert the idler into the floor beneath the motor puller and
raise up on it. Then loop the belt through the idler and onto the motor
pulley.
Step 14: Turn the drum a bit by hand making sure the belt is on track and not twisted.
Step 15: Replace front panel
Step 16 plug in lid switch
Step 17 Snap down the top install the screws to the filter chute and shove the filter back in.
Step 18: Give it a dry run fer a sec to make sure it works well before throwing any clothes in there.
Step 19: Grab a cold one. You deserve it!
all top loader washers have a lid switch so machine will stop when lid is raised,on the inside of the lid the is mounted a small plastic cover with a magnet inside which activates a switch just under the top of the machine if the magnet is gone thats your problem,if still there then switch is faulty
Unplug the dryer and take it outside. Step 1: remove the filter Step 2: Remove 2 screws from filter chute on top of dryer Step 3: Pull top towards you on each side slightly to raise it Step 4: Remove 2 screws inside the front panel Step 5: Unplug the lid switch using small screw driver Step 6: Raise up the panel 1 inch then remove it Step 7; Remove the drum Step 8: clean it up and lube the roller & idler Step 9: Remove the filter chute and clean it Step 10: Place the new belt (341241) around the drum with the ribbed side towards the drum surface making sure it is not twisted.A twisted belt will be ruined quickly. Step 11: Use belt to help you place the drum back in the dryer. Step 12: Make sure the rollers are in the groove and the felt is not tucked under. Step 13: Insert the idler into the floor beneath the motor puller and raise up on it. Then loop the belt through the idler and onto the motor pulley. Step 14: Turn the drum a bit by hand making sure the belt is on track and not twisted. Step 15: Replace front panel Step 16 plug in lid switch Step 17 Snap down the top install the screws to the filter chute and shove the filter back in. Step 18: Give it a dry run fer a sec to make sure it works well before throwing any clothes in there. Step 19: Grab a cold one. You deserve it!
I looked up yur model. It is a fine washer. Your lid switch on this model don't allow for wsh or spin if the the lid is ope. Older models would let the washer wash but not spin. This switch here won't allow for wash or spin. How it works
Note: this washer is a newer model and I have yet to come across one. I believe your problem to be the lid switch. It has 3 wires. 2 hot ones and another one attached to the frame. Jump them 2 live wires and see if she runs. If it works get a new switch and party on! I am TheMobilian.
Don’t force the lid open and break the lid locks. Here is the Service Manual and parts look up; FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference.Sears Parts Direct for reference. Use this procedure for releasing the washer top from the base;
Un plug the 120VAC power cord to the washer.
To raise the top of the machine.Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base.See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Here is the pic from page 33.
This will get the clothes out.
With the washer top raised gently push to Left and Right lid lock latches to outside of the lid the unlock position. You can now lower the washer top to the base. Do you want to DIY the OP error code? The OP error code could be caused by a Lid Magnet out of position.To do a quick check with the lid open power up the washer.Do you have the OP error code showing?If so take a large magnet and place it over the grey left lid bumper and see if the OP error code will clear the LED display. A Pic for reference;
If that doesn’t clear the OP error code we would need to do deeper troubleshooting. Are you up for that? Let me know……Rich If that doesn’t clear the OP error code we would need to do deeper troubleshooting. Are you up for that? Let me know……Rich
should be two spring clips between lid and front panel slip a skinny putty knife and press in clips that'll raise the top and u can get to the part u need
Unplug the dryer.
Use a putty knife to push back the top lid catches about 2 inches in from the right and left sides, where the top meets the cabinet front.
Raise the lid to the back of the machine. Disconnect the wires to the door switch.
Remove 2 screws on the inside top corners of the front panel on the right and left sides.
Reach in under the drum and remove the drive belt from the motor and pulley.
Grasp the rear center of the drum and pull up. It may take a little force.
Remove the drum out the front of the cabinet.
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