Top Loading Washer stops abruptly at end of spin cycle or when lid is opened.

More likely uneven loading, or stretched shock absorber springs. Do a very small load of things like socks, undies and facecloths that will self balance.

If it actually goes on and finishes the cycle and that really bothers you replace it. If not leave it alone and allow a little more time to complete its cycle. The lid switch only keeps the spin cycle from going with the top open.

lid control switch bad, OL means open lid

Hi, I'd like to help diagnose your problem but I may need a bit more information. Based on what you stated, I assume you have a top loading WHR washer with an electromechanical timer... the kind that you turn and it clicks. Anyway, you stated that the washer stopped in the middle of the cycle and that simply opening and closing the lid would fix it for a while. I suspect that your lid safety switch may be cracked and isn't being actuated by the plunger on the lid. If this is the case, the washer would function properly until it reached the point in the cycle where it should spin. Then it would stop at that point in the cycle. This makes sense that opening and closing the lid might "fix" it for a while. Also, if the switch got bad enough that opening / closing the lid didn't work anymore, you could rotate the timer dial just past the spin area and the cycle would continue. Have you noticed the clothes are wetter at the end of the cycle?

Anyway, check the lid switch first and then repost if you rule it out.

Good luck.

If you can catch it running while in the spin cycle but not spinning ( put a butter knife or screwdriver in the lid switch hole ) and wiggle the timer knob . If it starts spinning during this process , the timer needs replaced . Sometimes though , when a washer does everything BUT spin and you hear the motor running , the transmission is the problem .

Hi, it sounds like maybe some dust has gotten in the basket drive pads causing it to stick. Has it been happening long? Sometimes it will work its way out. Try turning the tub with your hand clockwise. You can also put a heavy load in the washer (wet) and let it get to a high spin. Then open the lid and see if it starts stopping slower.
If this doesn't clear its self up, you will need to change the basketdrive.
Please let me know if this has helpped.

Thanks
Vic

check the lid switch some washers will fill and was with the lid open but will not spin, if the lid is closed manually actuate the lid switch or bypass it electrically, or replace it.

You have a bad pully cam or brake

check hub nut, it is likely loose, its under the agitator. top pops off agitator and bolt hold agitator down.

Hi, There are several causes for this problem. Check these.

• No spin at all: the lid switch is fried. You test it with your meter.                                  There will be a motor which spins the washing machine's drum.                                              If you don't hear the motor running, then its the lid switch which would have been broken and needs replacing. A bad lid switch wil interrupt the spin cycle.

• In the Whirlpool washers, a common problem is that the lid plunger stops making contact with the lid switch. Use a pen to manually press the lid switch actuator (with the lid up, duh). If the washer spins...well, you know the rest.

• Older (belt-drive) Whirlpool: the spin solenoid is burned out or has cut wires. Ohm out that solenoid (20-30 ohms) and test with a test cord. Make sure the wires are intact by giving them a little tug. If this is OK, you may need to adjust/replace the basket drive.

• Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool:  worn out direct drive coupler.

• The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. On Maytags, replace the belt set if they look glazed or shiny on the sides even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad. Here's how to replace the belt on older Whirlpool/Kenmore belt-drive washers, and on old-style GE/Hotpoint washers.

• Timer is fried. On older timers, it's sometimes possible to run an external jumper to replace the bad internal contacts. Usually, however, the entire timer must be replaced. The only way to confirm is to use your meter and wiring diagram.

These are the causes that have to be inspected. You can also visit this site www.whirlpool.com/custserv/index.jsp

Hope my info solves your problem, Thanx for using fixya, Good luck.