The agitator does not work properly. when the machine is empty the agitator works fine, but when clothes are added and the machine is full the agitator does not agitate. Also, when it comes time to spin, the tub does not spin at all. the machine is making a loud noise at that time as well. is there a way to fix this? I was wondering if the machine has belts that I can replace?
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Lid switchIf the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
I suspect you definitely have a clutch problem. It might be the liner or it could be the transmission seal leaked some oil into the clutch you would know it by the oil on the cabinetThats a hint of a clutch problem with leaky top seal. An easy fix.the newer washer have a square recess you unscrew and lift the top of the agitator off and then you have access to the bolt that holds the lower portion on. The agitator has to come out first then drop the tranny (3 bolts) Put the tranny on a bench. You can use a pair of pliers and squeeze the spring and the clutch liner comes right out. You can buy just the liner, no need to buy the kit but you can do that too. None of the parts are expensive and anybody can do these repairs.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.