Whirlpool Fridge model EHB191PK. The overload relay is fried
I have a Whirlpool Fridge model EHB191PK. The overload relay is fried
and I want to replace it. I'm assuming this is the problem because a
melting plastic/electrical smell was coming from the fridge and I
traced it to this. the original connections are to 3 pins, oneon top,
two on bottom, which I assume would be easy to replace with anidentical
part. However, the NEW overload relay for this is NOTidentical. It has
3 wires: 2 red- labeled L & M, and a blue labeledS. [Can you tell I
am a novice?] The original connections are from 2reds and a white wire.
How do I hook this up? I'm not an electrician,but I'm not an idiot. I
identified this as the problem because this wasthe part that was
smelling of burnt plastic. Any and all help is deeply appreciated. The
only response I've had so far is ''why is the overload fried?'' I don't
know why. Worn out? The fridge came with our house so it is older but I
don't know how old.
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95% of the time its your starting components. Research "URCO410" that is a universal relay overload and capactitor kit. VERY easy to install just read the instructions and take your time, and will cost you about 20 bucks from a local parts distributor. These are great because they just remanufactured them for the newer ref. especially if its a newer whirlpool. In the mean time unplug the ref because you could damage your compressor. If its a GE then the clicking noise is probably from your control board.
If you post model numbers and make I could give you model specific info with look-up. Im hoping to soon be an expert.
Let me know if this helps testimonials give me actual feedback instead of the thumbs up deal. If you need further help just post more info I am qualified to work on many refs.
Good day, The board could have simply failed. However, the compressor should be checked thoroughly before replacing it since it's pricey. A service tech, would first test to make sure, none of the windings are grounded. This is done by removing the relay and overload mounted on the compressor, then checking each pin of the compressor to ground (bare copper tubing) with an ohm meter. Each pin should show near infinity. Then he would connect a start cord designed specifically for compressor running, and run the compressor independent of the rest of the machine. If it runs O.K. he would then test the overload and relay before calling the compressor O.K.
It has to be your call, as to how you want to proceed. The price of the board being the big issue. Thanks for using FixYa.
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
more than likely the compressor is not starting, it has a starting device on the left side of the compressor which has a relay/overload called a relay, remove the relay and shake it , if it rattles it has gone bad. the relay/overload combination has gone bad and can be replaced with pro41 relay. if the compressor has a run capacitor just eliminate the capacitor when replacing with new relay. connection of the two wires makes no difference.
Maytag (owned by Whirlpool since 2005) has issued a recall on the compressor relay due to fires. Whirlpool brands are not listed in the recall but it looks like they should be. The problem goes back to Jan 01 according to the Consumer Product Safety Comission.