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Does the top element come on first? I have changed the temp sensors on top and bottom and the bottom element. I do not get 220 volts at the lower element

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Check the breaker do you have 220 after that follow the path until you loose 110 replace that part most like is goin to be a relay

Posted on Sep 01, 2009


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What else can I try, my Intertherm water heater is not heating water off the lower element?

I should like to hope I have your answer.
If yours is like most U.S. model, it is called a 220 volt unit.
That is not really 220 volts, it is really 2 separate 110 volt units.
What that means is, there are actually 2 separate 110 volt hot wires to the water heater, usually one hot wire is black, and the other hot wire is red.
One is for the upper heating unit, one is for the lower heating unit. Perhaps your lower unit has blown the circuit breaker for that line.
I mean the circuit breaker in the main fuse box/circuit breaker box.
Did you test the lower wiring to see if the hot wire is hot?
If it is hot, be sure to test the ground wire, and also the wiring between the bottom and the top of the heater inside it.
God bless your efforts.

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I could not get the link to boot up but your element should be 220 volt. In thin case it would not matter which wire went on either terminal. The red would carry 110 volt and the black would carry 110 volt, thereby giving you the required 220 volt. The unit would get it's ground through the metal chassis.

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Does the Broiler Work? Make sure you have 220 Volts to the Oven. Take the 220 breaker and push if all the way off and then snap it back to the On position. If the Broiler works and the bottom elements doesn't get hot you have a element out. They are not to hard to change. Shut power off to oven and take the screw out at the back in the middle of the element and the elements pulls out and then unhook the wires and replace with a new one. If you have a volt meter you can OHM out the heating element. You should get a buzzing noise if it is good. The other part of the equation is the temperature control that could be bad so use your Volt Meter to do some minor checks before you start replacing parts. Hope this Helps!

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F3 usually means, that the oven temp. sensor is bad and one need to replace it.
The fact, that it's not heating tells me, the fuse in the back also needs to be replaced (requires pulling out).

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The heating elements and both thermostats have been replaced, they are getting juice but the water is still cold.

when you replaced them did you bleed all of air off tank before restoring power to w/h if not you could have burnt the new ones , are you getting 220 volts at top of w/h and ck wiring again to be sure properly wired top comes first and when has reached set point of top t-stat it transfers power to bottom just like a 3-way light switch operates 120 volts always on bottom waiting on the other side of the line to heat the element on 220

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Do you have 220 volts to the element. If you do then you have a bad element. If you don't then it is usually your erc (electronic range control) or your oven sensor. You need to test your oven sensor for the proper ohms, (should be on your wiring schematic), replace the sensor if you don't have the right ohms rating. You can also compare the upper oven sensor rating with the lower oven sensor rating. If your sensor is good then you need to check if your erc is sending 220 volts down to the lower oven element. Again you need to look at your wiring schematic(usually found in a sleeve behind the oven control panel), to determine which terminals to test. As always you need to be sure that you know what you are doing when you are working with live voltage. If you don't know how to work on live electical products you need to call a technician. It can be very dangerous. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

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The lower element is defective, either it is burned out (replace) or the relay that drives it is defective, have the same problem here (unless you know electronics you would replace the control board in this case). When the unit is preheating it uses both top and bottom elements to reach temp, in this case the bottom element is not doing its part so it never rises over about ~220. Rest of stove will work fine until this is repaired.

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If this is an older oven, check to see if it has a control knob or switch labeled "manual and "hold". Make sure it's set for manual. The hold setting maintains temp at about 140 degrees.
If not the case, is this gas or electric?

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