Dish washer rough opening

The vast majority of undercounter dishwashers measure approximately 24 inches in width, 24 inches in depth and 35 inches in height with adjustable feet. This means that the rough opening in your cabinets must be 24- by 24- by 35-inch. The dishwasher itself may be somewhere around 23 5/8 by 23 5/8 by 34 inches

Its pretty easy to calculate. open the top and place a straight edge across the top of the washer, then measure the height in inches from the bottom of the tub to the bottom of the straightedge. Next measure the inner distance from one edge of the tub to the other and cut that number in half. For example: Say the height is 30 inches and the distance across is 28 inches (cut this number in half so use 14). The total cubic inch volume would be calculated like this:

V = 3.1416 x (14 x 14) x 30
3.1416 x 196 x 30
18472.61 cubic inches

Divide 18472.61 by 1728 giving a capacity (volume) of 10.69 cubic feet.

Usually adding 3/4" to 1" to the actual window or door size (for a prehung door) works well. Blueprints can vary, some are the actual window and door opening ,some are rough openings. Usually rough opens will be followed by R.O. Hope this helps.

3/8 is the standard size for a dishwasher.

Your drain hose is to far down in the stand pipe or your stand pipe is to low, your stand pipe should be roughly the same height as the top of your washer if it is pull your hose out of the drain pipe it has probably just went down to far, it only need to be about 8 inches in the pipe, it is siphoning the water out, that is what your problem is.

I just checked Ebay, and there are two listed. You might try Craigs List.

(Tips from me:
Port the Vortec head. Open the Intake and Exhaust ports, by smoothing them out, and smoothing the casting sprue lines out.

Put the Intake gasket, and the Exhaust gasket on the head, (After marking the area with Prussian Blue)
Scribe the opening of the gasket, onto the head, then match the ports to the scribed lines.

You also should round the valve guides top surface. (Where the valve stem meets the guide) There is a square edge that needs to be rounded. This square edge interferes with the fuel/air mixture, as the sharp edge breaks the fuel/air mixture down into droplets.
You want to keep the fuel/air mixture atomized, Not droplets.

Also narrow the casting that comes up the side of the valve guide. (Squared off shape that follows up the guide, and makes the Vortec shape swirl shape in the Intake port) Narrow it to more of a small rounded edge.

Do not polish the Bottom of the intake ports. Leave them as a rough casting. Smooth, and polish the Sides, and Top of the Intake port. (Do not get Extreme! You'll go into the water jacket with your die grinder! Factory may have had a casting shift that day. Just smooth things up)

Makes a nice swirl pattern for the fuel/air mixture.
If you polish the floor, (Bottom), of the Intake port, you will create Two swirl patterns, and they will collide with each other, making droplets again. (They cancel each other out. You want one nice swirl pattern flowing through the Intake port)

I can bring my 1985 Fiero up to 155Mph, (On dragstrip set up for this, tires, and proper safety equipment used). I can also 'Keep my foot' out of the throttle, and get 45 miles to the gallon on the highway.

You can use flat top 350 Chevy pistons. The 2.5 Vin R Fiero engine has a 4 inch bore like a small block Chevy. The pistons can be put on the Fiero rods. Same wrist pin size. The piston drops down into the engine block, about .030 below deck height.

(Wrist pin to piston crown height, is .030 shorter with 350 Chevy piston, compared to stock Fiero piston. You can buy 4 - 350 Chevy pistons AND rings, compared to the price of just the rings, for a Fiero!)

(Thirty thousandths. Real close to 1/32nd of an inch. .03125 is 1/32nd of an inch)

Fiero's have dish head pistons, so the drop in deck height, and using a Flat Top 350 Chevy piston equals out. (Better flame travel with flat top piston. Better burn, more power. Uses more of the fuel/air mixture than a dish head design)
If you can't afford to have them balanced, use a beam scale, and balance them yourself.

I can bring my 1985 Fiero up to 155Mph, (On dragstrip set up for this, and proper safety equipment used). I can also 'Keep my foot' out of the throttle, and get => 45 miles to the gallon on the highway. (Throttle Body Fuel Injection. TBI)

Makes a V6 Fiero cringe!

Under the counter dish washers are very standardized. Just measure the current counter height and width of the opening. Nearly everything will fit unless it's a special order. GSD500G install dimensions are available on-line. Just Google the Model Number.

2 ins is rather small and there may also be a partial blockage somewhere in the system you are not aware off.
a naughty cure is to restrict the drain hose of the machine so water comes out a bit slower

SEVEN FT IS ABOUT THE LIMIT DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU ARE HOOKING IT UP TO. IF IT EMPTIES OUT INTO A LARGE DRAIN (2 OR 3 INCH) THEN SEVEN FOOT MAY BE O,K,
IF YOU ARE GOING TO COUPLE IT TO A 1 INCH LINE, THERE MAY BE TOO MUCH RESISTANCE.

Check if any of these is the problem..
1)Drain hose is kinked or house drain is restricted.
Straighten the drain hose to improve water flow to the drain.
2)Standpipe is too high.
Standpipe must not exceed 96 inches in height.
3)Drain hose has been taped (or sealed) into the standpipe.
Tape holding the hose in the standpipe should not form a complete seal. The standpipe needs air for proper draining. Remove some of the tape to make an air path.
4)Drain hose fits too tightly in the standpipe.
There must be an air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe for proper draining. The standpipe needs to be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter.