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Re: I get a buzzig sound from the bottom of the
Does it have an ice maker that is not working? The only thing I can imagine it could be is the start relay, condenser fan blades hitting something in its way or the water control valve trying to open because the ice maker is telling the water valve to open. Double check the model number above your post so I will pull up the correct manual for your refrigerator. Thanks, Sea Breeze
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By the way you discribe it, it sounds like it's going into defrost mode check and make sure freezer side isn't iced over or that the drain isn't iced over if it's a side by side drain should be at the very bottom of freezer side usually hidden behind a piece of plastic if it's a top and bottom the drain will in the freezer very back bottom also hidden hope this helps
there is a timer on the base that takes it thru a defrost mode, Turn it clockwise until it clicks then it will cycle in 30 minutes , do this about twice - it should clear the ice blocking the coil and get colder.
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour. This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.
This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.
Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor. The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac. The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.
You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds. The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.
All displays should be on.
The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.
The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.
Okay if not the coils inside the freezer section behind the panel that covers the coils is where the ice is located? I don't know of any other coils inside the freezer? Did you confirm that compressor itself is running? Not just the fan and clarify again the location of the ice.If you have frost on the freezer coil, you probably have a defrost problem. Your freezer should go into a defrost cycle about twice a day. When this happens the compressor and fans shut off and a defrost heater in the freezer coil will turn on heating away the ice. This usually last 10 - 20 minutes. If the defrost coil doesn't defrost it will become a solid block of ice and this will inturn block the air from blowing into your refrigerator compartment. There are several things that can go wrong with the defrost cycle such as the defrost timer, defrost heater, or the defrost termination thermostat.After defrosting the coils with a hair dryer, they have not frozen up again in several days. I did notice that the air diffuser in the refrigerator side does not seem to open by itself. It is not broken physically. If I open the luevers manually, eventually they will close and not reopen.
Relays will burn out for the same reason a light buld burns out. So many hours of life and they go. Also a power surge from a storm can cause them to go. If the compressor is cold try a relay. If you hear the compressor click on and then click off after 3-5 seconds try a relay.
This is from the GE Appliance "Knowledge Database" Web site:
Refrigerator - Explanation Of Red Glow
a no frost refrigerator, the defrost timer activates defrost heaters in
the evaporator section (rear of freezer) which heat up and melt the
frost off the evaporator coils. This process lasts for approximately
25-45 minutes and usually happens up to twice a day.
During this time, there will be no running sounds, no fan noise, and you may hear water dripping or sizzling as it hits the
heaters. On side by side models, you may even be able to see an orange glow at the bottom of the freezer.
Totally Unreasonable if you don't mind me saying so. The person who told you that story was thinking of an absorption unit more than likely.
Your proble is related to the defrost system of your refrigerator. There is a timer that automatically starts the defrost. It energizes the heaters that defrost the cooling coil. After the coil reaches a preset temperature a defrost terminator turns the heater off for the remaining time on the timer cycle. You could have a bad timer (stalled) which would not start the defrost. Locate the timer and turn the clutch head screw clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The defrost should take place and will be indicated by water in the drain pan under the refrigerator. If after 25 minutes it does not restart in the cooling mode turn the screw once again to the second click and replace the timer.
If the refrigerator restarts after 18-22 minutes and defrost does not take place your problem is in the heater circuit. Open heater or thermostat (termination switch)
Most of f&p make this noise its most annoying,
but could also be ice buildup on the fan blades,
creaking and cracking is normal as the pipes expand and contract is these thin foamwall fridges, not nice fridges, insulation has been compromised to lower cost, they work twice as hard at keeping cool