Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Whirlpool HE WFW9200SQ00 is Dead

Washer does nothing when power button is pressed except for a ding ding sound. Checked power, OK. Removed some foreign matter from Drain strainer and tested water lines and strainer.

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  • Woody Lansford May 02, 2009

    changed door latch and Main control unit, but same symptoms. I have read on other threads that the solder joints are bad on the control unit boards that wont let the relays work?

  • Woody Lansford May 03, 2009

    Thanks for the great feedback. I replaced the CCU, but before that I measured the ac coming in to the ccu from the filter and it was 119.4vac. I ran the diagnostics several times before and after the new ccu and door latch assembly and always only receive the code C:00 (door latch). I just measured all the resistances from the ccu to all external devices and found all within range except the door latch which read 160 ohms for the new as well as the old...the tech data I found suggested about 60 ohms. Seems like the only unknown now is the modifier board?

  • Woody Lansford May 03, 2009

    I entered the diagnostics by pressing the either of the modifier buttons. The door never latches so I guess it stops at that point. I did not see anything about advancing to another test sequence. I did check the door switch with my vom and found is was working correctly.

  • Woody Lansford May 04, 2009

    Thanks again for the guidance. I did double check the wiring on the ccu for placement and continuity to the lock module and found all ok. I marked the wiring connectors 1-5 and 1-6 so I could put back in the correct order. I also ran both test you mentioned with same results...just goes to C00 and stops. I am using the green data sheet from the bottom of the washer, but also downloaded a service manual, but for a slightly different model.

    The only meaningful clue I have found is a lack of voltage on the UIP3 connector. The data sheet says there should be -5v on pin 1, 0v on pin 2 and -12v on pin 3. I have 0 volts on all three which says the ccu is bad, but I replaced that unit and still get no dc volts.

  • Woody Lansford May 07, 2009

    I rechecked voltage since I thought I measured voltage on the connector instead of the ccu. The ccu has the proper voltage so the problem must be with UI, either encoder or modifier? Since you said those electronic boards are under warranty I plan to call service. Note I was told that the unit was out of warranty by Whirlpool. They said they did not receive the purchase date so the computer came up with purchase date of 6/11/07...we bought 12/29/07. So what is the warrnanty. my manual said 1 year!

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Control unit dead, replace main control and possibly user interface. Sorry this is very common failure on whirlpool.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

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  • Michael Childers May 02, 2009

    ok, the board you changed was the 'ccu' located in top right front corner, right? (there is also the motor control which resides on the bottom of the machine, and the "user interface" which is the actual buttons you push and that comes in two parts, the modifier board, and the encoder board (center knob). In general the encoder portion will not be a problem as much as the modifier since the encoder connects thru the modifier board to the main ccu. Motor controller usually wont be an issue and probably would not cause your symptom. Whirlpool tech support always suggest replacing the user interface at same time as CCU because the electronic tend to "marry" and carry over a problem to the new parts sometimes.
    I dont know if you have, but I just reveiewed the tech sheet for this problem and cant find that symptom listed (closest is wont power on - buttons dont respond) seems you are getting a response. We really need to try diagnostic mode to see if there is a response that way and a code to check. pick one of the modifier buttons and press for 5 secs on 5 secs off 5 times till all lights come on. then it will automatically give version codes etc. I need a F code (which will flash repeatedly).
    also have you checked the power filter unit in rear (black and white in pink comes out to ccu) with multimeter check in and out (120V AC approx). keep your door lock around, and packing for new ccu.
    CCU's are very common for whirlpool. (this is why I personnally have a GE). Whirlpool doesnt protect the electronics well from moisture, an epoxy coating is normally used around water area wp uses thin to none.



  • Michael Childers May 03, 2009

    c:00 is the first step of the diagnostic test routine. locking the door. since you are at this step, did the door lock?
    C: anything is not an error code but a incremental step in the diagnostic test routine(factory test).
    How did you enter this mode? there are two ways. (I actually just realized in your tech sheet the old way was still there in yours) the old way (drain/spin,no spin prewash) goes straight to the test routine bypassing codes. the new way does everything (unit off, press and hold for 4 secs any modifier, release 4, repeat) and that gives the codes.
    I did not see resistence info for the lock but if it matches the new then its probably good. (the part of those that usually fails is the door sw.) there are 3 sections to the lock. door sw button, lock solinoid and lock sw (confirmation). there are two makes of these and either can be used, German (made in china) and Mexican. the german is about $6 more expensive and rarely fails, mexico ones fail.
    After everything is done, the user interface is the only thing left. Unfortunatly the only way to find a problem sometimes is trial and error, but this gets expensive. double check your ccu connections, there is a connector that fits 2 places, all locations are labeled.



  • Michael Childers May 03, 2009

    door should have latched at c:00 normally the test will proceed to c:01 cold water fill automatically. however there is a manual test mode as well that is same at the one modifier hold and release method except that you hold and release one more time after the lights all come on (when lights come on that is automatic mode and the one I always use) in automatic it displays failure codes first then, if none or advanced using the modifer button used to enter mode, it gives software versions, then auto advances to test routine.
    that is odd if there was never a f code given. and think that just replacing the ccu and lock should have a lock issue at c:00 partly because you used the modifier board to get there.
    did you double check your connections, you may want to check the wires for continuity (granted wiring harnesses just dont fail). are you looking at the tech sheet its inside the bottom kick panel and online at servicematters.com then we are at least seeing the same info. all else fails replace the modifier board. this does seem to be one of those hair losing problems.

  • Michael Childers May 05, 2009

    well if there is no voltage there, pin 1 to 2 and 3 to 2, then that must be the problem, 120vac in and O out says ccu but did you check at the board or other end of the harness? Like I said CCU is common for WP but not usually a dud out of the box. I had thought about that connector before but with a new ccu kind of ruled that out. At least that part has a warranty.

  • Michael Childers May 08, 2009

    sorry, the warranty i mentioned would be on the new ccu you bought if its DOA, not the other parts, if you puchased in dec 07 then your warranty expired dec 08. No other warranty by wp. some manufacturers provide longer warranties on electronics and certain parts, not wp.

    voltage out of the ccu. was it missing at the other end of the harness? power is going to the interface. check those interface connections, I have found some loose.


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