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I have a GE JKP13GP double electric oven. Getting a F2 and F3 error. Sounds like I need to replace the sensor. Do you have instructions on how to replace the sensor for my oven?

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  • vonnekit May 02, 2009

    F2 and F3 error codes.  Bake or Broil, shuts off without beep or indication.
    Replaced the sensor without any change in the symptoms.
    I think it may be the control panel?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

nucklebuster
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: error codes F2 and F3

Two months ago I asked fixya about a g.e. oven with a f3 code. that evening a reply suggested I replace the oven sensor. I took the old one to the parts place, told the repairman about the code,and he told me the sensor WAS the problem. I replaced it, and WOW it fixed it! Today it faulted out again. I will pull it again and check it. It was installed correctly.The problem for a f3 fault IS the sensor.

Posted on Jul 29, 2007

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Oven trouble

Do Not try to perform the below if: Oven is under warranty,You are not handy with a soldering gun, or Are afraid to do this.

The below solution applies only to my in-wall oven with F2 and F3 codes randomly, but presumably will work with other GE models.

I had the same trouble with a GE in-wall oven. The problem was on the electrical board behind the keypad. A pin that was soldered to the board, that was the input for the oven temp sensor, had cracked solder. So I re-soldered the pin and hopefully it will continue working.

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If this fixes your oven please post back!

Posted on Dec 21, 2007

SOURCE: Error code F3 on Kenmore 911.4658815 electric range

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: ge oven fuse

checkin model # jkp15, f3 shows up as a shorted oven sensor here, No fuse even shows up for this particular model

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

SOURCE: Fault code F3, then F2

Well here's the details about those codes:
F2 :-
1. The oven temp has risen above 665F and the door is not locked or
2. The temp has risen above 965F with the door locked 1. Check oven temp in mode that failure occurred. Replace EOC (Electronic Oven Control) if above limits

F3:-
Oven temperature sensor is open (above 3000 ohms) Check resistance of oven temperature sensor, check for open wiring between oven temperature sensor

Posted on Apr 04, 2008

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1 Answer

F2 &F3 error codes, oven keeps beeping, I already tried turning off circuit breaker did not solve problem


F2
- E0 Shorted keypad (also called touch
pad) 1. Check keypad connector for firm
connection (keypad connects to control board).
2. Press CANCEL. If error code
returns after 60 seconds, replace keypad (also called touch pad or membrane
switch). Some models incorporate keypad in to control board as one unit. In this
case, replace control board (also called ERC or clock). F2 - E1 Keypad cable unplugged F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven,
if double oven) Replace Oven temperature
sensor (RTD)

Note: Applies to all F3-E...
codes. F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper
oven, if double oven) F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook
mode) F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean
mode) F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven,
if double oven) F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower
oven, if double oven) F3 - E6 Warming drawer sensor open F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor
shorted

Dec 20, 2010 | Whirlpool Accubake RF362LXTT Electric...

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.
4 Digit Failure Codes
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

on Apr 24, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.


4 Digit Failure Codes

F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective

Two digit codes:

F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure

Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:

F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction

F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error

F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.

If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

Regards.

on Mar 27, 2010 | KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave...

1 Answer

F3 and F2 Errror messages on my GE convection oven


F2 & F3 are fault codes relating to the oven temperature sensor

F2 during bake means a temperature of over 630 deg has been reached
F3 means shorted oven temperature sensor

What it means is you will most likely need to have the oven temperature sensor (thermostat) replaced .

Dec 19, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Error


F3
or
F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.

Dec 18, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

GE Oven displaying both F2 and F3 error codes; bad ERC or temp sensor?


F3 is Open oven temperature sensor circuit.
F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit .
F7 Component failure.

To fix this you need to read oven temperature sensor circuit at oven temperature sensor ( approx 1000 ohms at room temp); check for cut or pinched wire or loss of contact, if wirings are ok, then replace the probe.

Oct 28, 2008 | GE JRP15 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

GE Profile Wall Oven Model JCKP16GS-1


It sounds like this is a common occurance among GE ovens.
Shut off the power at the box, then remove faceplate then remove the keypad.
after doing so, remove it from connector, and clean pins with an eraser.
Make sure the terminals are clean of debris, and check for a reset button on the back of the keypad.
I hope this helped you out.

Oct 24, 2008 | GE Profile JT910SASS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

F3 Error Code - GE Electric Oven JTP18


all ge codes f3 are saying ot replace thermal sensor, you can check the harness connecting them for a pinched or burnt wire i guess, as far as getting a part number , you can enter complete modle number her e and look for the sensor, i checked just the partial number you gave and a few different ones showed up
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Apr 22, 2008 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

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