Question about Tomtom ONE 3rd Edition GPS

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Have tom tom for car,need to wire it up to m/cycle

Ive got a tom tom one classic for a car i want to use it on my motorcycle with the lead for the cigarette lighter, if i get a cigarette lighter holder can i wire it in to my battery the bike is a 12v would any harm come to the tom tom, do i need to get a lower voltage holder

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I've wired my tom tom for use on a motor bike.
you CANT run 12v straight into the tomtom, you can see on the cig lighter plug it has a 5v output.
So I bought cheap lighter socket, it looks like plastic tube with the cable running out of the back.
So the wires run from the battery (via an in line fuse) to the cig adaptors, these are hidden in my side luggage bag to keep dry and up to the tomtom. job done

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

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You can buy hardwire kits and brackets on ebay around $30

Posted on May 14, 2010

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That would be fine.
No harm done.
Another option is to cut adapter off and hardwire (inline fused) directly to battery.

Cars are considered 12V DC (even though they run 14.4V while running)

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Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2001 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic not charging


Hi, Rex before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha star 1100 Owner Manual

Sep 09, 2017 | 2001 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

Jumped my 2007 1100 classic crossed cables and now nothing


YOU MUST NOT JUMP A MOTORCYCLE. CAR, VAN AND TRUCK BATTERIES WILL FRY YOUR BATTERY. If you are lucky by crossing the leads you might have only made the battery die. Get a new battery regardless. Please note: - WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BATTERY REMOVE THE NEGATIVE LEAD FIRST. I would check all fuses next followed by a good look at the the wiring around the battery area. If you can get close to the rectifier/regulator (I know it sounds strange) see if you can smell a burnt almost fishy type smell. If you can then the rect/reg is probably fried too. When you have got and filled the new battery charge it (ONLY USE A DEDICATED MOTORCYCLE BATTERY CHARGER A CAR ONE WILL FRY IT). ALSO WHEN YOU REFIT THE BATTERY CONNECT THE POSITIVE LEAD FIRST. Hope this helps to some degree.

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1 Answer

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