An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: triton extreme with no sounding key
The key contact porbably is dirty and will have to be cleaned.
MOST of these contacts are actually a conductiove rubber pill that presses onto circuit traces of a board under the keys. These can get dirty and would involve dis-assembling the unit to get at the silicone rubber contact part and the circuit traces beneath it. Clean both with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and a Q-Tip.
Dis-assembly is a lot of work and requires care. If you are uncomfortable doing it, best to take to a shop.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
So you're saying with headphones you also only hear one side? I would suspect the internal amp is panned all to one side. There are also several other settings in this unit where pan can be set so you may have to check several areas. If you don't have any specific custom settings made I would try a restore to factory defaults. If that doesn't resolve it you likely have a hardware failure which is likely not repairable. I strongly suspect a panning issue though.
I am not familiar with your exact model, but if the plastic "hinge" for the button has broken, it is possible to "fix" it. This is not a DIY repair though. Can you tell me where you are located so I can perhaps suggest a repair location?
Safest thing is to use a transformer. If it is only 35 watts, that is pretty small.
Often you can find a small "control transformer" that has dual primaries for 120/240 volts.
Connect it as an "Autoformer". In this connection you would only need one thaat would handle half the 35 watts... However, the smallest is probably 5 watts giving lots of capabilty. Google "autoformer" to see how to connect it. Essentially the primaries go in series and you take you 110 from one-half this combination.
The secondary of a control transformer used this way would NOT be used but just taped for insulation.
You might contact a heat and ventilation company as they may have one... even one that was removed for very low cost.
I just changed the key on my Korg Triton Studio 61. It took some time, but it wasn't that hard. You'd better have a power screw driver. I had to take out at least 30 screws.
Do this at your own risk. Don't blame me if you mess up your keyboard. I'm telling you. If you're not that handy, don't try it. Pay attention to detail and be careful.
The Steps that I took
1) Turn your keyboard face down. Make sure you put it on something soft so that you don't scratch the face of your keyboard or damage your knobs or the pitchbender.
2) Remove all the screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel.
3) you have to take the entire keybed out. Lots of screws! I had to remove the "assignable - midi input/output board" to get it out. MAKE SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT ANY CABLES THAT CONNECT THE KEYBED TO THE REST OF THE KEYBOARD. I had to disconnect the keybed at three different places. These connector cables are NOT strong and if you pull too hard, you WILL break them.
3) Once you get the keybed out, you have to remove the plastic binder that goes at the back of the keybed. It holds the keys in place.
Then Snap the old key out. snap the new key in. Before you unpack your new key, make sure the old one is really broken. I had a key that wasn't broken. It had just come unsnapped. I snapped it back in and it was fine.
Put it all back together again.
I had a broken key before. i got it repaired and it cost me $150. This time I fixed it myself and it cost me $7.50