Question about Philips 60P8341 60" Rear Projection Television
I have a philips model # 60p8342 i purchased for seven dollars at a recycle place because it looked to be physically in good condition. i knew that it did not power on but i figured for seven dollars i would take a chance and see if i could fix it.
know the problem is when you press the power button there is a chirping sound the comes from the middle center of the center pc board(the one that the high voltage line from the tubes go too). it chirps for about 10 to 20 seconds then stops. then the power indicator on the tv blinks red 4 times the pauses then repeats.
i have check all fuses and they are go i have check the relay just behind the big transformer and it is good. i have removeed the center board to examine it more closely and i don't see any damage (i.e melted traces)
Click here for your owners manual in PDF format.
When Flybacks fail - they cause chirping sounds you are experiencing.
Your set has gone into protection due to the shorted conditions that have developed.
Both the main power supply and the high voltage flybacks can cause the chirping and beeping sounds.
Phillips sets are extremely hard to work on - even professionals cringe - because they do not have good support, parts availability, or available service manuals.
The quality of the repair depends severely on the ability of the repairer.
My suggestion is to call Philips direct - supply them with your model # and ask for part numbers for the power supply and high voltage flybacks.
When you contact Philips please have available:
1-888-744-5477 Monday - Saturday 8:00 am - 11:00 pm EST Sunday 9:00 am - 6:00 pm EST Excluding major holidays
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Posted on May 01, 2009
The chirping you hear is the switch mode transformer trying to supply enough current to the convergence circuit, when it cannot achieve balance it will stop and re-try to supply power. The actual chirp is coming from the coils as they reach max current capacity. When you lifted that connector, the power to the convergence circuit was removed. This removed the load on the power supply which allowed it to come up to the proper voltage without maxing out the supply’s current capasity. You may have blown a fuse on the power supply board. The microprocessor is sensing the loss power to the convergence circuit and muting the video and audio.(some models you can get the picture to come up but not all) The convergence ic's have failed again. There are several possible explanations for your problem.The most common problem is that the ic's you used were inferior this problem is such a prolific problem among all brands of big screen tvs. There is a huge market out there selling horrible ic's for as little as $6.00 each. Praying on the inexperienced repair. I know i have been through this before. At our shop i got them to only buy our ic's where they are known high quality. But the only problem with this is they are about 30.00 each. But they work! The parts store is a good place to find them as well. Also if the original ic's were stk392-110 or stk392-120 replace with either stk392-150 or stk392-180.The second possible issue is that you did not replace the heat sink compound on the back of the ic’s this will cause the new ic’s to quickly overheat and short. The third possibility witch I have only seen with is that you can over steer the convergence causing the ic’s to draw more current than is necessary to converge the set, there are other methods designed to get the convergence close to correct without using the convergence to get it right. You may need to use these methods before you attempt to do a digital convergence. In every case that have had repeat failures, one of the three above problems needed addressed to fix the set and keep it from coming back. I have worked on 100’s of tv’s with this problem.
I hope this would be fix this yourself.
Any further assistance, let me know.
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Posted on Apr 20, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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