Color has gone picture is fine color looks black and white yellow and blue shows some times

Some newer TVs do not have the traditional "yellow" video input, known as an "AV" connection. Even without that input, you should be able to use the standard three-color Wii AV Cable that came with the system.

What to Do:

1. Look for "component" inputs on your TV. These connections have a row of five differently-colored inputs (green, blue, and red for video, white and red for audio). If you have more than one set of component inputs, it's the first set that generally works with standard AV cables. Look for a set that has a green input with yellow around it, or the word "video" just above or below it.
2. Plug the yellow end of the Wii A/V cable into this green "Y" input. Plug the white end into the audio "L" and the red into the audio "R." Leave the blue and second red holes open.


3. Turn on your Wii console and set your television to the input select being used.
4. If you are seeing the image from the Wii in black and white, try the following to get the image in color:
   • Cycle through your television's input channels (usually with the "Input Select" or "Source" button on your TV's remote control) to find the input select that has the image in color.
   • If you're only finding the image in black and white, you may need to switch the setting of the input select from a component signal to a standard AV signal. This can be done by:
     • An on screen menu option. This is often accessed by using the "Menu" button on the remote.
     • A button on the remote that switches between the standard and component signals. These can be labeled such things as "AV" or "Video."

If you turn color off and stand back and examine the screen---if it is not black and white but yellow looking you have bad Glycol in the blue picture tube which is quite common.

Easy way to know for sure is with set on and rear cover removed peek with a small mirror at the three lens---don't touch anything with the set on===each tube red,blue, green should have a picture with the set on.

Likely you will find the blue one looks like a floodlight with little or NO image/picture.

OK, here is the breakdown on whet you are doing wrong.

Video 1 - Composite -
Video - Yellow
White - Audio In - Right
Red - Audio in - Left

Video 2 - Components - HD - RGB = Red, Green, Blue
Video -
Red - Red Colors
Green - Green Colors
Blue - Blue Colors
White - Audio In - Right
Red - Audio in - Left

Your GameCube will only work on Video 1, unless you buy an HD (Component cable). You will need to buy HD cables for your device connected to Video 1 to work on video 2. I will assume it is a DVD player. This is a high definition cable to produce a better picture. Let me know if you do not completely understand

In case of a problem or clarification or my solution was insufficient, don't hesitate to post me a reply.

If you are satisfied, rate my solution with the "thumbs" or (even better) add a testimonial.

white/blue
white orange
white green
white brown
white slate
red blue
red orange
red green
red brown
red slate
black blue
black orange
black green
black brown
black slate
yellow blue
yellow orange
yellow green
yellow brown
yellow slate
violet blue
violet orange
violet green
violet brown
violet slate
**Keep all pairs together and you should be fine***

Colorimetre HCFR software
AVC HD 709 calibration disk
Spyder2 colorimeter (I know most prefer the Eye-One meters, but the Spyder2 was available from my job at no cost)

Here are the settings:

PS3 Blu-Ray player

Output Format (HDMI): Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr (important!!! NOT RGB output)
BD 1080p 24hz Output (HDMI): On (this TV can reproduce video at 48hz for accurate 2:2 pulldown)
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super White (HDMI): On (not sure if this matters)

42LG50 Settings

Aspect Ratio: Set By Program (Personal Preference)
Picture Mode: Expert 1
Backlight: 50 (Personal Preference)
Contrast: 54
Brightness: 54
Sharpness: 40 (Personal Preference)
Color: 50
Tint: 0

Fresh Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On

White Balance: Warm
Method: 10 Point IRE

10 (-3,8,-16)
20 (15,24,-21)
30 (20,36,-22)
40 (3,19,-40)
50 (8,34,-41)
60 (10,50,-20)
70 (-5,50,-8)
80 (-16,50,18
90 (-14,50,30)
100 (-22,38,21)

Red Color: -3
Red Tint: 0
Green Color: 10
Green Tint: 0
Blue Color: 14
Blue Tint: 0
Yellow Color: 0
Yellow Tint: 1
Cyan Color: -11
Cyan Tint: 0
Magenta Color: 0
Magenta Tint: -2

Take time to get used to the settings, you may think the screen looks dull at first. The truth is most people have way too much contrast on their TVs.
These settings will also work for Cable or Dish hookups, in which case you may change the Noise Reduction option to Medium to reduce signal noise.

OR....

2POINT IRE

Backlight: 65
Contrast: 55
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50
Color: 45
Tint: 0

Fresh Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On

White Balance: Warm
Method: 2 Point

Red Color: 3
Red Tint: 0
Green Color: 9
Green Tint: 2
Blue Color: -1
Blue Tint: 0
Yellow Color: 6
Yellow Tint: 5
Cyan Color: -1
Cyan Tint: 1
Magenta Color: 2
Magenta Tint: -1

The yellow spot is due to the BLUE LCD and/or lens assy cracked, reason, to much HEAT! The blue is the darkest color and hold the most heat, so it goes first, always! In some cases it’s only the lens, however most of the time LCD is damage to. Parts are available, however install and alignment is timely. Quick fix is the complete light engine, which for model# E44W46LCD is part# 3141VSN916C, which customer cost is $1,449.27, wholesale for about $1,065.21. Rebuilt, if you can find it around 850.00 to 950.00. However the rebuilt does not always look as good as factory. My advice, TRASH set. This part will fail again in about 3 to 4 years, unless you watch a lot of white video. Remember, on a black or dark picture, all three LCD are blocking 100% of the light, causing extreme heat within the light engine. It’s a bad design.

TV Tech

Hi,

Depending on the vehicles wiring itself, Alpine uses the below color coding for its wiring:
yellow – constant +12v such as the positive battery terminal
red – switched 12v such as the accessory terminal of the IGN switch
black – ground which could be the chassis/body ground of the vehicle or the negative terminal of the battery
blue/white - remote trigger for add-ons such as a power amplifier
blue – will activate a power antenna (if present)
white and white/black - front left speaker + & -
grey and grey/black - front right speaker + & -
green and green/black - rear left speaker + & -
purple and purple/black - rear right speaker + & -
orange/white - reverse wire
white/pink - monitor control lead
pink/black - audio interrupt from mobile/cell phones
yellow/blue - parking brake
yellow/black - foot brake

To bypass, the yellow/blue must be triggered negative/grounded. Alternately, it may be easier to use an adapter such as a Peripheral PTR7 (http://peripheralelectronics.com/). In some regions, it is not allowed to operate this unit while vehicle is in motion.

Hope this be of help. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck, kind regards and drive safe.

The problem with the set is that the blue gun has gone weak, and not emitting at par with red and green guns in your picture tube. Turn of the blue screen and get the grainy display on the screen (detach the cable) and enter into service mode to fine tune until you get a perfect or black and white grain pattern.

I have a blue-ish yellow ghost tint which just appeared on my 51" 51SWX20B made July 2002. Did the magic focus got a number 5 at the end. Did you get a number when you did the magic focus?

I'm assuming you're using the yellow ended video cable and two audio cables hooked up to your TV to display the signal. If so, I would just make sure they are connected in the correct output jacks on your dvd player and that they match up with the input jacks on your TV. If so, then I'd try another DVD player to see if that one plays OK.