I need to know if both left burner orifices are the same on GE Spectra Range, Model JGBP30WEA3WW. We purchased the unit used,and it was set up for LP, but we need to switch it back to Natural Gas. The previous owners say they don't have the orifices and that we need to buy them.
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Re: natural gas orifice burners
Before you get too involved, check to see if the natural gas orifices are still with the range. Usually, when the conversion is done, the person who converts the range puts the original natural gas orifices into the holder which contained the LP ones, then replaces it. Look for an inch and a half long metal strip holding the four brass orifices held on by one screw very near the range gas regulator. (the regulator is the part the gas line connects to on the range) Also, look for the conversion instructions in the original installation and set up instructions, or attached to a sheet of paper on the back of the range. You will need to change the plunger in the regulator (Unscrew the cap, flip the plunger around, and replace) and turn the orifice spud on the bake and broiler burners three full turns counter-clockwise also. (using a 1/2 inch open end wrench, counting twelve 1/4 turns) Orifices will require a 7mm or 9/32 inch nut driver or socket to change. The orifices are different for the simmer, regular, and high output burners. (have a "I", "II" and "III" marked on them to help identify them, respectively.) The left two burners are both "regular output" burners, and use the same orifices.
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each burner has a natural gas jet or (orifice) as you pull them out, one atb a time. You should be able to color coordinate them at that point. the jets will be at the end of each gas line right before the burner. and each burner gets one. I haven't seen the model you are referring to. but the ones i have changed out in the past, usually the hole is the same size for all the burners no matter the size of the burners. I hope this helps. good luck with it!
There should be a set of orifices for each burner as well as the oven and broiler. When the unit was converted to propane, these orifices should have been replaced and the ones for gas put in with the conversion kit installation information. The kit should have been reattached near the pressure regulator.
If the kit was missing the orifices, then, yes, you are missing pieces. Check with your coworker if the conversion kit was missing. If you have the kit, it can be easily done by any appliance installer (or repair person) licensed for handling NG. (At least on our range, the conversion kit installation was straight forward. Every orifice was clearly labeled with the labels different for each burner and for the gas/LP kits (ABCD (NG) vs MNOP (LP)) .) The regulator is the only part that switched for LP or NG without the kit.
As I recall, the only tools we needed for the top burners were a small wrench (10 mm) and a small flat blade screwdriver. Remove one orifice and put in the appropriate replacement. Then adjust the burners so that they didn't blow out when the oven was opened or quickly turned from high to low (for the simmer burner). The oven and broiler took a bit longer. Several screws had to be removed to get at the orifices. Then the air flow had to be adjusted for the incoming gas.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (the conversion installation manual was on the counter during installation; I read it while it was open.)
you can increase the sides of the flames by opening the orifices, if not differences. make the orifices holes a bit bigger, you can have as big of a flame as you want. those orifices are at the connection of the burner with the valve that supplies gas to the burners.
If you have converted the burners and the regulator, all you have left to do is the oven and broil burners. (for self clean oven model you posted under)
Let's do the broil burner first. Open oven door and look up at the broil burner. At the back of the oven you see the tube that the gas flows through to get to the burner. At the base of this tube is an air shutter opening, and right there you will find a brass nut with a hole in the center of it (the burner's orifice). Use a 1/2 inch wrench to turn the nut three full revolutions clockwise looking at it from the burner side. It is easier to turn it twelve 1/4 revolutions.
Now, do the same to the main burner by removing the storage drawer, remove the one screw holding the metal plate so you can get at the base of the burner, and do the same to that orifice. Do not over tighten the orifices.
Are you using natural gas or propane (LP)? It sounds like you may need to change the orifice size on the gas lines going to each burner. If you are using LP and have the orifice set for Natural gas, the flames will burn higher and hotter, causing heavy soot. Under each burner, there should be a small nut with a hole in the center at the end of the gas line. The hole for Natural gas has a slightly larger diameter than one for LP. Your stove should have come with extra orifices as part of a conversion kit. Could this be the case? There's also another orifice in the main gas regulator in the back of the stove. Have you checked to see if the orifice for the regulator is set correctly? Does the oven burn hotter than usual with heavy soot, too? If you could please answer these questions first, I can give you better advice. Let me know...