Question about GE DBSR453EBWW Electric Dryer

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Dryer We just replaced a heater coil and a timer for my dryer, model # DWSR483B2WW. Once we started drying again, the dryer now cuts off after 5 minutes of drying. We put the old timer back in to see if that helped solve a problem, nothing. It still does the same thing. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I cannot find the manual and was hoping to download one off the computer for wiring purposes.

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  • Anonymous Apr 20, 2009

    If it were the thermal fuse, would that be a 1 time thing where it would not start back up? Now if it were the overload on the element, would that also stop the motor from turning? When it shuts off, the timer will continue to run.

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You have one of 2 things wrong. 1st, there is a thermal fuse that is in the back of the dryer. It is a disk with a fuse inside. Or the overload that is attached to the housing of the element. If you got a new one with your element then its the 1st. Cheap parts..can be found at www.Repairclinic.com or any appliance parts store. Good luck.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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1 Answer

The dryer works fine in TimeDry mode, but in Intellidry mode it dries very slowly. The "Moisture Moniture" indicator lights start and stay at "Less Dry". I have replaced the moisture...


you could have bad gas coils.if the timer doesn't advance in auto dry most likely you're having heat problems,when the dryer heats and then the heat shuts off then the timer will advance,when the heat comes back on the timer stops,it does this until the clothes are dry.gas coils when starting to fail will work normally until they get hot and then no heat until the coils cool down then they will work again,on time dry the timer just keeps counting down until the time runs out no matter what's happening to the dryer.i've seen the coils fail after the first 10 minutes and other times for 20 to 30 minutes but usually if the load is big and in time dry the clothes will feel warm and you'll need to dry them a second time to get them fully dry,also while you're in ther you should clean out the dryer at least once a year,clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vacuum out the cabinet where the motor is and blow out the vent line,if it's a long run i use a leaf blower to blow out the line,remove it from the back of the dryer,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out,i've blown out birds nest out of some lines, your clothes will dry on time,you won't go through so many parts and you won't have to worry about a dryer fire,the gas coils are on top of the gas valve,remove the two phillips screws,lift off the cover and change out the coils.next time you use the dryer keep an eye on it,after it runs for 20 minutws start checking it,you'll hear a click,then another click and the flame will lite,look into the gas tube and if the flame isn't liting then you have bad gas coils.

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1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

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1 Answer

Hello my 70 series kenemore is not getting warm and the timer is not completing the cycle to turn the dryer off it just keeps running for hours


I would need a model number to better narrow the problem down for you.
If this is a gas dryer

Remove the lower panel. With the lower toe panel removed, start the dryer & watch the igniter. If the igniter glows & cuts off without lighting the gas this would usually indicate the gas valve coils are weak & will need to be replaced. For this type of repair be sure to disconnect the electrical power & turn off the gas to the dryer. If the timer is set in the auto dry cycle, it will not advance if the dryer is not heating. Once you repair the dryer, the timer should start advancing. It is possible that your old timer is good. If you need further assistance please resubmit your question.
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The timer not advancing from 50 minutes in time dryer & the unit not heating are not related unless 1 leg of the 240 volt supply is lost. Diagnosing a problem like this will require using a volt/ohm meter. With the timer set to time dry you should be getting 240volts to the timer motor & 240volts to the heating element. In the wiring diagram provided L1 comes from the timer on R & goes through the thermal cutoff, oper thermostat & the hi-limit to provide 120volts to 1 leg of the heating element. The L2 leg goes through the motor switch to the other side of the heating element. This is how the element gets 240volts. The timer motor gets its voltage on BK from L1 & OR from L2; this is what advances the timer.

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1 Answer

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Sounds like there is a couple of problems there:
  1. The start switch is stuck and needs replacement/repair, part number WE4X881
  2. The clothes taking too long to dry may be due to a) clogged dryer vent; b) one or both heater coils burnt out; part numbers: WE11X10007 for restring coils only or WE11M23 for whole heater assembly c) problem with temperature selector switch, part number WE4M407
  3. There might be a problem with timer (WE4M271), but before replacing it I'd suggest taking care of the long dry problem first. In some models, timers are wired that way so the timer advances only when there is heat, so check the schematic.
There should be a schematic diagram inside the control panel, use it to for diagnosing the problems you described.

Good luck,
Vlad
First Choice Appliance

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