I tried installing a sub and amp ( aftermarket ) in an 08 crv. i used a scotch hi low level converter spliced to the rear speakers for the out to the converter. the sub sounded horrible and would only hit backwards. i switch the pos and neg, same thing, and i tried switching the pos and neg on the door speakers and still the sub hit backwards. the amp and sub was later tested in another car with after market deck and worked fine.
does the crv have something stopping me from using the speaker wires for the hi low conveter? i never had this problem before.
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The Chrysler Dodge radio sends full volume to the Infinity amplifier using other cables it sends voltage with data to the amplifier and tells the amplifier lower or increase the volume, there is no way to tap or get the signal that is way pac build this interface for your radio CAN buss adapter hi low
ok..well theres a lot of question in there, lemme take a shot at it.
the hi/low switch explained: the hi/low switch tells the amp what signal voltage is being delivered to the amp...hi-power (4-15volts) or low-power(micro-volts). Your aftermarket head unit had what are called pre-outs (or preAmp outs) meaning the source signal (your music) is not amplified before being delivered to the amplifier...sooo...your amplifier setting for your aftermarket radio would be 'low' to tell the amp that the music source being sent to it is low-voltage.
Typically a manufacturers radio will not have pre-outs, they will be amplified by the radios internal amp to anywhere from 4volts on up, and you need to tell your jl audio amp that the source music being supplied is 'hi' voltage.
soo...of course...if you are sending 10volts to the amplifier and tell it that your sending micro-volts (low setting) your amp will over-amplify the signal and thus the overwhelming bass you experienced.
instead of finding a low frequency line to attach to your LOC (line output convertor) use the built in crossover on yours subwoofer amp or an external crossover to limit the frequency range going to the subs
If you are planning on using the factory stereo you will need a line level converter. You basically connect two of your speaker channels to the line level converter. That in turn will give you a line level out (RCA cables) That line level out can be fed to a two channel amp which would be where your subs would hook up to. If you do this however you will lose two channels of mid range and highs ( your rear speakers ). Downfall to this approach is that some line level converters are susceptible to alternator noise.
If you have an aftermarket deck this will be much more simple. You simply run your RCA outputs from your deck to your external amplifier. Aftermarket decks typically have front rear and subwoofer outputs. That means you can drive a four channel amp for your front and rear and a two channel amp for your subwoofer. This is the recommended way to go. For hookups I just suggest buying an amp kit that is comparable in power rating to your amp. If you buy a 500watt amp make sure your wiring kit can handle at least 500 watts.
You will need a line level converter for starters (takes speaker level signal and converts it to line level/RCA signal) you connect this to the speaker left/right wires and it has a RCA left right on other end to connect and run to your amps, (you need this box because factory radios don't have RCA outputs on them) At that point all you have to do next is run the power/gnd/rem for your amp and then speaker wires to your front/rear speaker and then sub (if using). You can use one of these converters for your front/back speakers so you will still have use of your front/back/left/right fading options. make sure you disconnect th factory plug/harness at each speaker since the amp will be powering them and you will run speaker wires to each speaker. If you only want one converter it will be on your front channel and your sub will be power by the front. (you will fade to front for more/less sub bass unless your amp has a separate volume/bass control). If you want your sub to fade with rear speakers you will need to install another converter off of the rear speakers. Found a site with some photos that may help you with your project. http://www.redlineforums.com/forums/howto-section/15003-how-sub-stereo-amp-install-factory.html
That appears to be a good amp and should power your subs with no problem.
You will want to install a line-level converter to your stock speaker outputs and use RCA cables to the amp. Here's a link to SonicElectronix line-level converters. The PAC SNI-35 is OK if your stock radio has a remote turn-on lead. If not, you should probably look at the PAC TRUNK-LOC. It still a 2-channel line output converter but also includes a trigger output to power on your amp.
dont need a diagram,, most amps have a speaker level input...dont mix this up with line level....connect your wires from back of factory speakers to speaker level input on amp...then if your amp has a low pass switch select lowpass setting now you have punch
RCA output level and speaker level output have different voltages and currents. The problem you are describing is common to folks trying to connect an OEM dash unit to an aftermarket amp. If your amp has speaker level inputs, try wiring to those......best bet..buy a new head unit, it'll sound better...louder and cleaner.