Question about Bosch 24 in. SHU66C05 Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher

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Water remains in the tub after the cycle is complete.

The drain is not plugged. What is wrong and how can it be fixed?

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If you are sure that the soft disposal and drain are clear, then check the discharge hose to the sink and be sure it isn't kinked or otherwise obstructed. Also check the drain for the sink and be sure it isnn't partially plugged. If all ok, then look for an issue with the control board or pump.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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Where pump located

Posted on May 01, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Why will my dishwasher Electrolux model #EIDW5905JS0A, not drain completely at the end of its cycle.


Good Morning Friend,

I understand your Electrolux dishwasher, model# EIDW5905JS, will not completely drain at the end of the cycle. It is not normal for water to remain in the bottom of the tub at the end of a cycle. If water remains in the bottom of the tub at the end of a cycle, the dishwasher may not be draining properly. Please follow these troubleshooting tips:

    1)If unit is hooked up to a garbage disposal, make sure the disposer is empty.

    2)If unit is hooked up to a new food waste disposer, check to see if the "knockout" plug located inside the disposal inlet has been removed.

    3)Check to see if drain hose is kinked.

    4)Make sure cycle is complete, not in a pause.


    I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.

    -Best Regards-
    WP

Jul 03, 2014 | Electrolux EIDW5905JS Dishwasher

1 Answer

Why does my dishwasher not drain completely at the end of its cycle.


Good Morning Friend,

I understand your Electrolux dishwasher, model# EIDW5905JS, will not completely drain at the end of the cycle. It is not normal for water to remain in the bottom of the tub at the end of a cycle. If water remains in the bottom of the tub at the end of a cycle, the dishwasher may not be draining properly. Please follow these troubleshooting tips:

    1)If unit is hooked up to a garbage disposal, make sure the disposer is empty.

    2)If unit is hooked up to a new food waste disposer, check to see if the "knockout" plug located inside the disposal inlet has been removed.

    3)Check to see if drain hose is kinked.

    4)Make sure cycle is complete, not in a pause.


    I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.

    -Best Regards-
    WP

Jul 03, 2014 | Electrolux EIDW5905JS Dishwasher

1 Answer

MDB5600AWB dishwasher after the cycle has completed some water remains in the bottom of the tub.


either the check valve located in the lower sump is plugged or not closing fully and letting waste water back in,or the sump is plugged with waste food,or the drain line to the sink is partially plugged

Jul 16, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

After wash is completed there is water remaining in the rubber gasket which caused mold to form with a bad odor. Is t5here something I am doing wrong?


The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



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May 21, 2010 | Miele W865 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Have a front load Kenmore elite He3t washer...goes through a complete cycle including spin but clothes remain wet...spin seems to be slow


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Jan 25, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Clothes are sill soaking wet after sin cycle


When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.

  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Aug 18, 2009 | Maytag EPIC MFW9700S Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE prodigy washer Water remains in the bottom of the basin after teh cycle has ended


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Apr 30, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Not draining


Are you sure your drain system is not clogged or restricting water flow ? When you say youtook off the hose off under the sink and it seemed to be lots of water running on the rise cycle .. that suggests that you may have a restriction after the drain hose in your house drain system. ...

Some other considerations..

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance.
  • Some water, usually one to two cups, remaining in the bottom of the tub is normal. However, if water is covering the bottom of the tub, the dishwasher is not draining properly.

  • Check for paper or large objects covering or blocking the sump area in the rear of the tub.

  • Make sure that the right type and amount of detergent is used: Using the wrong type or too much detergent can cause sudsing that can prevent the dishwasher from draining. Only detergent specifically designed for automatic dishwashers such as Electrasol®, Cascade® or Cascade Complete® should be used
Hope this helps you...

Sep 03, 2008 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Maytag dishwasher MDB9100A---tub refills after cycle completed


Problem is actually a water valve that is near the water inlet. Cost is about 35 bucks to fix unless you listen to the guy on here and pay for parts that you don't need and pay them 20bucks for bad advice. Our total cost to fix this $35 dollar problem was an entire wasted Sat, 2 trips to the appliance repair parts place, $130 for the electrical control board that the "wiz" here said I needed--electronic parts and non returnable so we now have a new one that we didn't need.

Mar 29, 2008 | Maytag MDB9100A Dishwasher

2 Answers

Dishwasher doesn't drain


Greg, if the model number ends in GO1, your dishwasher has a piston nut assy. thats problably giving you the grief. If this assy. goes bad you will have water left in the tub at the end of the wash. A common GE problem. It's located under the filter screen in the back and just unscrews out. Part number is wd24x199. It's an easy fix. Look up the part on the net to get an idea of what it looks like. Catriver..post back.

Jan 25, 2007 | GE 24 in. GSD1000G Built-in Dishwasher

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