Question about Whirlpool Dryers

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There is a black plastic rectangle with 2 metal bars in it that is attached to the back of the drum with one phillips screw. The metal prongs are catching the clothes, towels, etc and putting pulls in them. I've got pulls in 2 sets of new towels.

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Thanks, Just Kim.

That little doo-hickey (thanks for the pic) is the moisture sensor the machine uses to determine how wet or dry the clothes are when you use "Auto-Dry". You'll need to replace the sensor assy., no biggie. It's part number is 8576468. You can plug that number into your favorite search engine, or call your local appliance parts retailer and see if they have one in stock.

UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE DOING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING!!!

After you have the new sensor assy., all you have to do is remove the Phillips screw holding it in place, pull the old one out, disconnect the wires and install the new one. That easy!

Don't forget to show some love and rate this solution as "FixYa". (My overall average is depending on you... ;P )

Thanks, Just Kim.
SG
There is a black plastic rectangle with 2 metal - 39cbdbc.jpg




Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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Front loader washing machine inside hard plastic bar broke off


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How doe the band on my chain break attach to my chainsaw mine is broken and i do not know how to install it. or how to get the clutch off so i can replace it


It can be a little tricky!

If you are referring to chain break band

Tools you will need:
1/2 Socket (to remove bar nuts)
T25(torq) or you can use a Flathead screw driver but is a little harder.

Remove 2 bar nuts,Clutch cover,bar,chain, 2 screws on black bar handle right behind clutch cover(this is needed because there is a hidden screw there for the chain break) You will need a new chain brake (my guess is that it is part # 530071893 aprox $15) but you will want to verify that with your model number.

You should see the chain break assembly, 3 - T25 screws are visible after the clutch cover is removed(note sometimes you have to clean saw dust to make screw head visible) the other T25 screw is hidden under the black bar handle. Once you remove all 4 screws on the chain brake you will be able to pull it off.

Installing the new one is the tricky part because if it is set(or break is on) you will have a hard time putting it on.One of the easiest ways is to focus on it near the muffler you will see that a metal 3 pronged gear fits into the plastic part of the chain break handle.and if the band is too tight to fit over the clutch drum you will have to carefully reset it by applying pressure onto the area that has the 3 pronged gear and chain break handle make sure that the handle is pushed forward all the way while you apply pressure then slowly pull chain break handle back till you hear a "snap" this resets the chain brake spring and the band should now fit over the clutch drum.Now, proceed with putting back together 4 chain brake assembly screws,2 handle screws,and bar,chain,clutch cover,and 2 bar nuts.

Please note it is important that you apply quite a bit of pressure onto chain break area where metal (3 pronged) gear fits into handle while resetting or when you reset it the metal part can cut into and damage the plastic piece in the chain break handle.

You can see a breakdown here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Poulan-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Model-P4018WT/1324/1503220/P0506041/00002?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=P4018WT

Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Unable to read disc


Hello,

If your console is unable to read disc, then there seem to be a problem with the console, and the problem most likely is as a result of a bad laser/lens inside the console.

To replace the lens of the nitendo wii console, remove the two flip up panela on the side of the wii to reveal the black face plate with the controller ports and memory card slot.

Then remove the three screws located underneath the flip up panels using the fine phillips head screwdriver, then remove the black face plate.

Then remove the two tri wing screws located underneath the face plate. There are also two phillip head screws under the face plate but you can leave them in place.

Use a scalpel to peel off the two white stickers that are covering the screws located near the two front rubber feet on the bottom of the wii. This will reveal two black tri wing screws.

Use the scalpel to remove the two back ribber feet on the bottom of the wii, this will reveal two silver tri wing screws. Remove the two black tri wing screws and the two silver tri wing screws revealed on the bottom of the wii.

Use the scalpel to remove the rubber foot that is covering a screw in the top left corner at the back of the wii. Remove the screw using the fine phillip head screwdriver. Then use the scalpel to remove the white sticker covering the screw directly below the bar code on the back of the wii. Remove the screw with the tri wings screwdriver. Then use the fine phillip head screwdriver to remove the screw that is holding the battery cover in place on the back of the wii. This will reveal another screw that you can remove with the tri wing screwdriver.

Remove the front face plate of the wii, be careful because it is still attached to the console by a black and red wire. Disconnect the wires by lightly pulling on it. Remove the wii shell casing by gently lifting the separating it from the internal electronics of the console.

Remove the DVD drive by taking out the four corner screws using the large phillip head screwdriver then lift up the DVD drive and disconnect both power cable and ribbon cabble connecting it to the console.

Turn the disassembled console upside down, remove the two screws holding the DVD citcuit board in place, disconnect the three ribbon cable that are attached to the DVD circuit board, Use the tweezers to free the wires that are still connected to the circuit board from the plastic clips, Lift up the DVD circuit board and remove it from the way, then remove the lens case that is holding the lens ribbon cable in place.

Use the tweezers to remove the lens casing by lifting up on one side hooks that are holding it in place. This will reveal the laser lens unit, Which is held in place by two metal bars. Take out one of the metal bars by first removing the screws located next to it, and then gently lifting up on the plastic tab so you can slide it out.

Remove the laser lens unit and turn it over to reveal a white plastic part held in by a screw. Take out the screw so you can remove the white plastic part. You will need the part to install the replacement lens.

Attach the white plastic part from your old lens to your new lens using the same screw from the old unit. Place the new lens in the console and reassemble The DVD circuit board.

Remove the two solder points located on the lens ribbon by using a hot soldering iron.

Then reverse the process to reassemble the console.

Take care and good luck.
Hope this was helpful

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My Audi A4 drivers seat side control panel has come off. How can I fix it? can I get the replacement panel? Thanks, AJ


1) The Electrical panel on the side has a black bar that is the mounting bracket. It is only clipped in place on the plastic outer casing. the black metal bar is attached with 2 shoulder screws. these probably just worked themself loose nad dropped out. Go to your dealer parts counter and ask them for the 2 screws. Remount the black bracket and then re clip the case to the bar.

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1 Answer

Kenmore model number 82870120


put the machine on spin and turn on. If you hear the motor it is a part called a coupler if it is completely dead it is the lid switch. to gain access into this machine look for 2 phillips head screwson the lower front or back side of the control panel. some models have plastic covers that pop off on each side covering these screws. after removing these the control panel flips up and you will see 2 brass clips on each side that you will pop of with a flathead screwdriver. now unplug the lid switch wires and the entire shell of the machine will lift off. now you have easy access to the lid switch and down at the bottom you will see the pump for the washer. remove the 2 metal clips and the pump slides off. check it as they are prone to leaking. now you will see 2 more clips securing the motor some also have screws in the clips but anyway remove these and the motor slides out. the coupler consists of two plastic hubs with 3 prongs sticking out one on the motor and one on the transmission with a rubber disk connecting the 2 together. this part has been redesigned 4 times the latest one has teardrop shaped prongs and a metal sleeve insert where they attach to the motor and tranny

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1 Answer

LG Dryer DLG7188RM LP conversion back to NG


Disconnect power. Open dryer door and remove 2 phillips screws near lint filter. Remove three phillips screws at very back of dryer top which go through an L shaped part into the back of the dryer. (the L shaped part remains attached to the dryer top) Push the dryer top back about 2 inches and lift off. Remove one screw at each top front corner holding front control panel on to dryer. Remove control panel by carefully releasing plastic tabs which are holding front control panel onto metal support. (Watch out for sharp edges !) You can unplug all electrical plugs, or just swing it up on top of the dryer. (careful not to scratch the plastic control panel) Remove the four phillip screws now assessable at the top of the dryer's front panel / door panel. Tilt forward, unplug door switch and drum light, and lift front panel off . Now set the panel aside. At this point, you may be able to continue with the conversion, but it is easier to do and see if you remove the drum.

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Sounds complicated but it's not real bad.

A FixYa rating is expected with this much help. Thanks.

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DANGER!!! UNPLUG and allow the monitor to discharge before servicing.

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1 Answer

How do I remove plastic dash on 2006 93 convertible?


Dashboard Replacement
.
What you need:
1. rivet gun
2. 5/32" x 1/4" long aluminum rivets (11)
3. 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum rivets (2)
4. Drill w/ 1/8", 5/32" bits
5. small phillips and flathead screwdrivers, large flat head screwdriver
6. wrenches, 8mm, 10mm (sockets and boxend - your car has 'em in the toolkit) 22mm (socket, 7/8" works ok), straight driver handle and ratchet handle.
7. 3M trim adhesive, recommended for sticking some of the insulation to the new dash.
8. box of ziplock sandwich bags
9. indelible marker
10. vinyl treatment (recommend Meguiars #40)
11. Window cleaner.
12. Assorted towels/rags
13. did I mention pilsner from Munchen?
Here is what my dash looked liked. These are the typical places for cracks. The instrument cluster crack can allow your cluster to squeak against the dash, very annoying. You can fix this temporarily by removing the cluster and rubbing some vaseline around the edge. Why do they all crack? As far as I know, UV weakens and makes the vinyl coating brittle. The cracks can actually occur as a result of core expansion. For instance, If your dash is cold, and you crank the heat, the core will expand some, and the brittle skin cracks. The key is use a sunshade and keep the dash coated with a non-silicon UV inhibitor.
Ok, let's go. If you want to do it right, place everything small in individual ziplock bags and label them. If you do this, you will have exactly the right number of screws etc. when you reassemble. If you don't do it, good luck. I put all removed parts in my trunk, safe from marrauding children animals wives,
1. Remove the steering wheel. Pry up the center emblem and use a 22mm or 7/8" socket to remove the nut. Wheel pulls straight out.
2. Remove instrument cluster, 2 small screws at top of cluster, then use flathead to pry it out of dash. Carefully unplug all wires from the back. the large connectors have black clips that must be pryed upward with a small screwdriver before the connectors will come out. The picture below shows some of the larger connectors, you can see the clip on the white one. There is also a small black plastic "door" the pulls out from back of cluster and allows removal of 3 smaller connectors. You'll see what I mean. Be careful not to scratch the window on the cluster while doing all this.
3. Remove the OBC/hazard panel and the left vent. These are held on with 2 screws each, visible after cluster removed. The vent just pulls straight out. You will need to unplug the wires from the OBC and the hazard/defroster switches. Recommend labelling all connectors to make it easier later. If your OBC is dim, now you can replace the light bulbs in the back
4. Detach driver's under-dash panel. Several screws. You can just undo all the top and side screws, and let the panel swing downward without completely removing it. Here is what it'll look like at this point
5. Remove the glovebox. It's attached at hinge w/ three 8mm bolts. These screw into flat little rectangles of metal that act as nuts. They are loose, so don't lose 'em. Remove the vinyl "curtain", just slips off of back of glovebox, held on to metal bar above with two plastic rivets. Pop the pins out of the two front straps. Push the flashlight charger socket down through its mount, remove two metal clips from wire, and the box will be free. Remove screws/bolt that hold latch assembly to the dash. Remove the plastic panel to the left of the dash (2 screws).
6. Remove A-pillar trim panels. You really don't need to loosen the headliner to do this. The pillar panels only stick about 1/2" behind the liner, so you can bend them in the middle and pull it out. You also need to remove the portion of the door seals that covers the pillar trim. It just pulls off. Pull the pillar panels straight up and out of the dash. There are foam inserts near the windshield which also come out. Note that the panels fit between the dash and a metal clip. This is the top of the actual bracket that bolts the dash to the car.
7. You are now ready to free the dash. But first, you may want to look and commit to memory how the dash is lined up in your car relative to the doors etc., as you have some abilty to adjust the new dash's position when mounting . Remove the bolt on either side of the center console, and the associated spring-nuts. Remove the bolt from the bracket above the steering column. Unlatch the center airbox. You will see a clip on each side similar to that on the air filter box under your hood. Most of the ventilation ductwork comes out with the dash. Now look for the bracket on each side of the car, held onto the body with two 10mm bolts. Remove them, and the dash is free. Getting it out is another matter. Also note that there is a metal springclip at the front of the dash just left of center that just pops out without any extra effort.
8. Get it out. Here is what it'll look like at this point: The towels are there to protect the leather center console from the 2 metal clips on dash. Also note I removed the center vent, this is not necessary yet and was mostly an accident. I have raised the dash up, and this is where I got stuck
The problem is that the dash hits the windshield, and there are two ventialtion ducts, attached to the dash, that protrude downward and won't easily clear a metal cross bar which is welded into the car (and has tons of wiring tied to it). No windshield, no problem. After contemplating calling the autoglass boys, I got in there with the big flathead screwdriver. If you pry the ducts upward from below, they will pop over the metal bar, and you are home free. BE CAREFUL! The plastic ducts are attached to the dash by 8 small screws which are not removable while the dash is in the car. The plastic ducts will break at the screws if torqued too much. Don't try to yank it out by the dash itself, the ducts will snap. Get outside the car on your knees, and shove one arm between the dash and the "shelf" on the firewall. Use your forearm to lever the dash up from below. At the same time, use the other arm to pry the duct with the screwdriver. Be patient, a helper is a plus. Here I am relieved that I don't have to have the windshield yanked
You can see the two rectangular ducts that get caught on the metal bar. Up to this point, it should take 2-3 hours. Less with a helper.
You can see the black rectangle near the center windshield, which is where the spring-clip fits in.
Spread a large dropcloth or several towels out as a smooth place to tranfer stuff from old dash to new. Have a(nother) beer.

Jun 17, 2008 | 2006 Saab 9-7X

2 Answers

Disassemble Panasonic 8077 shaver


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My model is almost the same as your model ...

Problem: Model ES7037CMB - Over the past month the Panasonic shaver would turn on with 3-4 tries, but now will not turn on at all – the on-off switch must be bad after only 7 months of wet use. Before sending it in I found this diagram:

Disassembly: Remove bottom Phillips screw & end cap, pop off each plastic side with fingernails (reinstall them from top 1st), remove 4 phillips screws, remove 2 metal clips (d), take top off. Remove battery case and the on-off little, white plastic lever fell out. Slide off the white plastic/metal on-off slider & clean contacts with knife … my bottom contact was black & top was clean.

Assembly: Reinstall on-off slider (white plastic with metal contacts) by sliding back in grooves -- hardest part - place the on-off plastic lever on the battery back unit – I tried to put it on the case and could not get it to stay on. Slide the battery pack back in with the plug prongs in the holes in the end being careful not to drop the on-off lever. Test shaver. Stuff battery wires inside case – screw 4 screws and add 2 clips on (d), then final screw in the end after cap placed on.

Easy once I knew how to put the on-off lever on the battery side – that was tricky. Total time was about 1 hour – next time it will be about 15 minutes. Works great! jgg 12-27-08.

Think I will use it dry from now own since it had a lot of whiskers inside of it and maybe wash only the head as needed with baby shampoo and try to keep the insides dry. I never saw a rubber seal that I expected, but perhaps I missed seeing it. But, how would whiskers get into the inside unit if it was sealed correctly?

Good Luck!

Nov 23, 2007 | Panasonic ES 8077S Electric Shaver

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